Apperley Bridge to Skipton - (20 miles and 14 locks):
A bright sunny morning greeted us as we took on fresh water at Dobson Locks and met Ann and Alan, a couple who had just bought OCTAVIA at auction for £12,500 . It was a nice 55' boat built in 1990 that had not been looked after, had a very sick engine and needed a lick of paint, spit of polish and some "tender loving care".( I have since been informed it sold for £16,500 and the gas system was sub-standard). They were taking it to Snaygill's near Skipton for a new engine and Alan was coaxing it along with ether injections (more about this in a minute).
We travelled together by peaceful Buck's Wood on our way through Shipley to the interesting estate village of Saltaire. Sir Titus Salt, a wealthy mill owner, was so appalled by the working and living conditions of his employees in Bradford that he built this utopian settlement in the middle of the last century. In addition to his elegant mill he built superb housing for his workforce, places of worship and recreation and a library; but no pubs. We spent an pleasant couple of hours here, it is well worth a visit.
After leaving Saltaire the two boats started ascending Dowley Gap Staircase. We made it into the upper chamber without problems, but something was stopping the bottom gates from completely closing. After a few abortive attempts to clear the obstacle we found a lock keeper nearby painting bridge plaques. Armed with various poles and hooks and dressed in his knee high "wellies" he came to the rescue and asked us to reverse into the lower chamber and open the bottom paddles; the resulting 124' long and 18' high chamber was engulfing. The lock keeper waded around in the top chamber trying to find the foreign objects and was given plenty of moral support, not only from us, but from all the gongoozlers that had arrived on the scene. Alan did not shut off Octavis's engine for fear of not getting it started again and the chamber filled with smoke and fumes. I did become a bit concerned when he arrived on deck with a lighted cigar in hand and his trusty can of ether in the other. However, as everyone was having a such a great time, I just went below and fixed us all a rum and coke. With his wellies full of water the lock keeper found and removed the offending objects, a crushed oil drum and tree stump, and then proceeded to fill both chambers at the same time by opening the ground culverts, which were above the water line, and the gate paddles. With smoke, fumes, lighted cigar, rum and cokes, a very wet BW employee and lots of frivolity we experienced the most "interesting" locking up of our canal travels.
Barry of Bingley was waiting for us as we approached; with his able help we navigated his "5-Rise" in record time. This very famous and picturesque staircase was built in 1774 and is certainly one of the wonders of the waterways. [Photo] We moored overnight at the top of the staircase and spent some time talking with Barry. His reputation as a skillful and dedicated lock keeper is not unfounded, he was always on the go making sure the locks were clear of rubbish and everywhere was spotless clean. In the evening we walked into Bingley and found a kabob shop where we had a terrible fish & chip dinner.
A couple of miles on from Bingley at Low Wood (by bridge195) [Photo] is one of the prettiest moorings you can imagine. Nearby is East Riddlesden Hall, a 17th century manor house with rooms full of Yorkshire furniture and fittings. We spent three warm sunny days at Low Wood among the colorful bluebell fields painting our canalware, potting our plants, watching the golfers at nearby Riddlesden and Keighley Golf Clubs and feeding the neighborly ducks and swans. I would guess that less than ten boats went by us while we were moored there. Solitude, tranquillity, beauty, perfect weather.... what more could you ask for?
We tore ourselves from "our spot" and cruised further up the Aire Valley passing more bluebells, rhododendrons and birch woods on our way to the charming town of Silsden where the main street is flanked by a flowing stream. There are many old stone buildings here including attractive canalside warehouses and an old corn mill dating back to the 17th century. After picking up some groceries we continued on our way to our "base camp" at the market town of Skipton.