Restoration of a 1967 Lotus Elan How To

Installing Flares

Modifying Front Bumper

Painting

Restoring a Dash

Restoring a Steering Wheel

Hold the flares over the wheel well and mark around the flares with a permanent marker.

Using an air-powered cutoff tool, cut the body to within one inch of the line, but following the limits of the inside of the wheel well.

Finish all sanding on the body to get down to fiberglass.

Sand down the body from the line in a few inches to remove outer layer of fiberglass.

Sand down back edge of the flare in the contact area.

Mate the flare to the body using enough sheet metal screws (pre drill holes) to hold the flare in place.

Using fiberglass impregnated body filler, fill gaps between flare and body on back and front of flare.

After bond is dried, remove screws and apply same filler as appropriate.

Sand down applied filler to give smooth surface on which to lay up fiberglass.

Apply multiple layers of fiberglass tissue on both back and front of flare, extending 3 inches either side of edge of flare.

Using fiberglass body filler, smooth contours to taste.

When race flares are used, the front bumper must be shortened, which eliminates the mounting bolts.

One solution is to use 3 brass water closet bolts (the ones that hold the tank to the toilet) to mount the bumper.

Start by measuring and cutting the ends of the bumper to fit. Use a power sander to fine tune the fit.

Decide where you want the mounting bolts, and drill holes in the front body.

Slide the bumper in place and mark the hole locations from inside the engine compartment.

Cover the front of the body with Saran Wrap. Body filler will not adhere to it.

Insert the bolts in the body and use washers and nuts to hold them in place. I found it helpful to install wire between

the bolts to keep them parallel.

Apply fiberglass reinforced body filler to the hole locations on the bumper and slide the bumper into contact with the bolts.

Use tape to hold the bumper in place while the filler sets.

Remove bumper and add filler and sand to minimize filler thickness but leaving enough to maintain a bond.

Cover face of car with Saran wrap, bolt bumper to car, and apply filler to perfect the shape of the bumper and the body gap.

Sand body to get down to fiberglass. This is the only way you can find the damaged areas of fiberglass.

For areas of minor crazing, sand down the entire area and a couple of inches beyond, then lay up a layer of tissue.

For areas of prior accident damage or significant cracks, sand down the area extending about three inches either side of the crack.

Do the above on the finish and back side both.

Lay up multiple layers of tissue on top, heavier matte on back to rebuild the strength.

Use fiberglass impregnated body filler to fill minor low spots left after repairs.

Once all damage is repaired and all sanding complete, wipe down with tack rags and then a grease remover such as AcryliClean.

Apply a two-part sealer such as PPG DP40/401 Epoxy Primer.

Use a thin spot putty to fill minor imperfections.

Apply multiple coats of a primer surfacer such as PPG K36 Acrylic Urethane. Sand, tack rag, and AcryliClean between coats.

Apply finish coat such as PPG Poly Acrylic Enamel, DAR.

Wear approppriate safety gear, including external air supply when using 2-part paints.

Remove all gauges and switches.

Remove all hardware from glove box door.

Carefully drive metal inserts out of holes in dash from back to front.

Set dash on work surface, right side up, on a non-slip pad.

Use belt sander with coarse grit to sand off old finish and down to solid layer of wood.

If you slip and gouge the wood, mix up bondo and fill the gouge. Then re-sand to obtain smooth, flat face.

Turn dash and glove box door upside down, place door in opening, and tape together.

Place new wood veneer upside down on protective surface and apply contact cement. Also apply contact cement to top side of dash assembly.

Turn dash assembly upside down and carefully lower onto veneer.

Use rollers or block of wood and hammer to insure good cement bond.

Use X-acto knife to cut out all gauge openings, screw holes, line between glove box door and dash.

Use drum sander in air-powered die grinder to remove any remaining veneer that overlaps the plywood, including inside gauge holes.

Apply multiple coats of UV-protected polyurethane, using 0000 steel wool and tack rag between coats.

If plywood splits in switch recesses, apply a single layer of fiberglass tissue to the back side.

Remove screws holding spokes to hub.

Remove screws from back of rim into spokes.

Carefully ease spokes out of slots in rim.

Polish spokes on buffing wheel.

Sand and paint hub.

Sand down steering wheel to remove old finish and try to obtain even color. Don't sand too much.

(My rim was discolored from sweat that had soaked into the wood after the protective coat had worn off)

Apply Minwax stain.

Apply multiple coats of UV protected polyurethane to rim, using 0000 steel wool and tack rag between coats.

I found it helpful to suspend the rim from a coat hanger hook inserted in one of the spoke slots.

Reassemble wheel.

©2001,2002,2003 Jeffrey Lee Ivers

Last Modified: January 1, 2003