Virtual Gourmet

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Cover Story: Dining Around New Orleans, Part II, by Edward Brivio

New York Corner: Le Périgord by John Mariani

QUICK BYTES

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DINING AROUND NEW ORLEANS, PART II       by Edward Brivio

     Susan Spicer has been a major player on the New Orleans dining scene since opening Bayona in 1990, where she still works as chef-in-residence. Three years ago she launched a new venture, Herbsaint (701 St. Charles Ave., 504-524-4114, www.herbsaint.com), a little corner storefront dining room done in pale pistachio green with dark wood accents, and high ceilings and tall windows that make it especially bright and airy in the afternoon. Two large photos give the room a strong sense of place: a vintage sepia blow-up of an old time jazz band and, over by the cozy, attractive bar, a haunting b&w still life of a cocktail glass with a slotted spoon containing a lump of sugar balanced over it, all illuminated by a bright shaft of daylight. What gave these ordinary objects such an unmistakable sense of drama? It’s a portrait of the absinthe cocktail preparation (herbsaint is a modern substitute for the banned absinthe), mixed with water, and sweetened by pouring it over a sugar cube resting on a slotted spoon.
   Chef de cuisine at Herbsaint is Donald Link, who favors seafood on his menu, starting with a spicy, flavorful gumbo, as well as superb cornmeal-fried oysters. Light, greaseless, crunchy and sweet, the oysters were just warmed over and so good that I'd devoured most of them before noticing the hot sauce on the plate. We also couldn't get enough of the shrimp-filled deviled eggs, three halves served with an exquisite side dish of perfectly dressed baby spinach with a bacon vinaigrette.

Spicer also was a partner in the two-year-old Cobalt (333 St. Charles Avenue, 504-565-5595, www.cobaltrestaurant.com) situated just off the gorgeous lobby of the newly refurbished Hotel Monaco--once a Masonic temple and all the better design-wise because of it. She has now left Cobalt, leaving Brack May as Executive Chef. cobalt

    We liked everything about the place, from its colorful, quirky decor--an undulating, metal, white  picket fence with glowing glass finials separating the dining room from the bar (right)--and its take-no-hostages cuisine. While we looked over the menu, a little jewel of a salad appeared, made up  of fresh mozzarella and slices of tasty heirloom tomato (pretty much the only sort I can abide these days). Crispy corn cakes smothered with wild mushrooms,   shards of Pecorino and a sage-truffle jus were warmly welcome as dark sheets of rain fell against the windows. BBQ shrimp atop "smokin’" grits studded   with bits of andouille were very good too. With these we enjoyed a Burgundian-style ‘01 Ramspeck pinot noir ($10.25/$48) from California's North Coast recommended by our knowledgeable waitress.        Photo: Bobby Pirillo
    Our entrees were two beautiful pieces of meat: A rack of Colorado lamb rubbed with ancho peppers, then barbecued and served with white cheddar mashed potatoes, delicious fried corn, and even better crispy asparagus; and a filet of beef from Tractor Hat Farms in Texas, with a blue potato strüdel, what the menu referred to as "Madeira-nated" mushrooms, and as an added fillip, delicious crispy sweetbreads. Our wine was a full-bodied ‘99 Pedroncelli "Three Vineyards" Cabernet Sauvignon ($9.75/$39).
     May likes to make big, bold statements: he packs his dishes with flavor as well as with food, which seems to suit his mostly young, hip crowd. But, don't get me wrong, this is a dining room, not a "scene." May just happens to be cooking for the latest generation of local gourmets. To assure them, however, that the kitchen doesn't take itself too seriously, it offers a root beer float for dessert; I had to have it: It's made here with top-notch Abita brand root beer and a rich cream cheese and vanilla ice cream. It was delicious, but be careful, it tends to overflow, and you won't want to lose a drop.

Gautreau's (1728 Soniat St., 504-899-7397, www.gautreaus.net) opened slightly over a decade ago, much to the delight of its Uptown neighbors. Recent changes in the kitchen, however, had everyone wondering if owner/manager/host Patrick Singley would be able to maintain its famously high standards, but if a recent dinner was any indication, the answer is a definite yes.

Chef Mathias Wolf got things going with large Gulf shrimp, rolled in three peppers, grilled, and served with a citrus gastrique, a sweet-sour reduction with the refreshing kick of vinegar. The peppers gave the shrimp a pleasant crunch and some interesting flavors, while the light, slightly acidulated gastrique helped to moisten the shrimp and cut the sharpness of their coating.
It wasn't so long ago that bay scallops were de rigueur in fine dining establishments, but in the last five years or so they have been all but eclipsed by the much larger, yet no less delectable, sea scallops. Wolf sears them quickly, serves them atop a celeriac purée, then perks up the caramel-like flavors with a deep brown Madeira glaze. Blackfish is sautéed and served with gnocchi, wild mushrooms, and, for a bit of astringency, spinach. A truffled beurre blanc, whose aroma filled the dining room, brought the dish all together. Beautifully-browned, braised lamb shank arrived with a tiny dice of mixed root vegetables, white beans, and for seasoning, a cardamom jus. A delicious Tuscan chardonnay, the ‘98 "La Pietra" ($38) from Cabreo complemented the fish dishes--definitely Old World in personality, ripe, fruity, and oaked, but not overly so (no butterscotch), with that slightly medicinal finish that to me is peculiarly Italian.
Starters: $7.50 to 10.50; main dishes: $18 to 30; desserts: 6.50 to 8.50.

There's no slacking at the venerable Arnaud's (813 Bienville St., 504-523-5433, www.arnauds.com), where classic Creole cooking has been maintained and refreshed by the Casbarian family. The room where lunch is served is large, bright, and airy (right). Spacious tables make for comfortable dining, while two walls of street-level windows provide a view of the action outside. Dinner is served in a more formal room with translucent leaded glass windows, mirrored walls, family portraits, crystal chandeliers, potted palms and bentwood chairs. All the rooms here preserve the original Italian polychrome tile floors -- a different color palette for each room -- that are as much a part of the city's heritage as the restaurant itself. At lunch half dozen oysters on the half shell and an order of Shrimp Arnaud were pure pleasure, the oysters just about the freshest and sweetest I've tasted recently, and the Gulf shrimp in a spicy rémoulade as good as they've ever been. The jumbo lump crabcakes in a Creole sauce were fine, but much better was soft-shell crab Sydney, full of pure sweet crab meat. Simply battered then fried and served with crispy leek, potato and carrot frizzles, it was the straightforward, no-nonsense kind of dish that's always, simply dazzling. Perfectly fine crème brûlée and French vanilla ice cream rounded out the meal.
Lunch: Appetizers: $2.75 to 5.75, entrees: 10.50 to 18.75, desserts: 3.50 to 6.

Sunday breakfast at Brennan's (417 Royal St, 504-525-9711, www.brennansneworleans.com), a French Quarter mainstay since 1955, is as much a New Orleans institution as Mardi Gras, and it's easy to see why. The courtyard (left) is still one of the most glorious in the French Quarter. Veteran Chef Mike Roussel's good turtle soup and a baked apple with thick cream -- really for the kids in the crowd -- came first, followed by Eggs Hussard, a variant on the usual eggs Benedict with the addition of marchand de vin sauce as well as the usual hollandaise, adding a deep meaty note. Eggs à la Nouvelle Orleans are a good excuse to eat lump crabmeat at breakfast. They come with a brandy cream sauce, but I couldn't resist more of the restaurant's hollandaise, which is flavored with vinegar rather than the usual lemon. The egg dishes are served here on rusks so there's no problem with soggy English muffins. Bananas Foster, which was a dish created here at Brennan’s, brought things to a delicious close. The wine list here is as stellar as ever—certainly one of the best in the city—though they really should do something about the cheap wineglasses they serve these superb wines in!
Breakfasts here average about $35.

Some notes on Lodging: "The French Quarter begins in the lobby (below, right) of the Monteleone" (214 Royal St., 504-523-3341, www.hotelmonteleone.com), as locals like to say. The hotel, rich in literary history, is where Tennessee Williams wrote parts of lob

"Streetcar Named Desire," while Truman Capote liked to claim he was born in one of its suites, and William Faulkner called it his favorite hotel. A great white behemoth, it exudes Old World charm, from the rococo exuberance of its facade to the glistening marble floors and crystal chandeliers in its lobby, complete with lush divans, overstuffed bergeres, and a circular settee. Right off the lobby is the Carousel bar, which has been slowly revolving since 1949 (its carousel canopy was added in 1992). Our mini-suite had a small living room and a larger bedroom. The newly renovated bathroom was spacious and opulent with a Jacuzzi, a glass enclosed shower stall and marble throughout. Upper floors offer wonderful views.

Situated in the Warehouse district, about a 15-minute walk from the Quarter, the newly opened Renaissance Arts Hotel (700 Tchoupitoulas St., 800-431-8634, www.renaissanceartshotel.com) is, in fact, a renovated warehouse, redone with great care and attention to detail. Since the hotel's interior started as a blank canvas, its designers were able to make a triumphant statement about how a luxury hotel built in the 21st century should look and feel, and in accordance with the "Arts" theme (the neighborhood is home to a number of galleries), the RA contains wonderful contemporary works, mainly by local artists, the most notable exception being the three spectacularly-colored glass chandeliers by Dale Chihuly of Seattle. The expansive ground floor, all highly polished marble, is pure serenity. A beautiful wall of translucent blue blocks by New Orleans glass master Mitchell Gaudet separates the bar/restaurant from the lobby. The large, comfortable guest rooms have high ceilings and are tastefully decorated in fine fabrics and high-end modern furniture, with all the latest in connectivity.

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For lodgings more steeped in history, try the Lanaux Mansion (547 Esplanade, 504-488-4640;www.historiclodging.com/lanaux). Lovingly restored to its late Victorian splendor (left) by its present owner, the hotel doubles, fortunately for the rest of us, as a small B&B, with just four rooms, three of which are in detached cottages in the back yard.

INSTANT UPDATE: Chef Richard "Bingo" Starr of the new La Côte Brasserie, reviewed in this space last week, has left the restaurant for unspecified reasons.

Georges Briguet has been one of New York’s foremost restaurateurs, running the lovely Le Périgord (405 East 52^nd Street; 212-755-6244) with a grace and honest charm that has kept it among the top ranks of French haute cuisine. Never pretentious, always comfortable, Le Périgord has, since 1964, weathered fashions, fads and chef changes without losing its balance, so that returning after a year or two or three is like a welcome back to classic form at this golden dining room.
   You enter Le Périgord down a few steps into a foyer set with a table spread lavishly with cold hors d'oeuvres and desserts. Mr. Briguet greets you with proper bonhomie, as does a tuxedo-clad staff of professionals who can minister to just about any request with no fuss at all. People dress well at Le Périgord, never thinking to do otherwise, and the sound of conversation has a soothing lilt after the blasts of screeching at other, newer restaurants.
    For the past several months now Chef Joël Benjamin has been keeping the flame bright at Le Périgord, and I think he's the best Briquet has had for some time, which seems to have as much to do with his training as with his precision. It is easy enough to go through the motions when it comes to the classics, like a high school teacher whose fervor for Cicero's orations has cooled after twenty years. But Benjamin is a young man, and he knows the right way to do things and is engaged by the process, while also claiming the right to show his personal mettle.
    You might begin with a little amuse, perhaps a tiny potato topped with sour cream and caviar, or a pastry cup with a dab of foie gras mousse. You are presented with a winelist that will amaze you for the modest prices prices charged for great Bordeaux and Burgundy--a tradition Briquet has kept of not hiking prices on bottles he bought years ago. While other French restaurants gouge to the quick with 300 percent mark-ups, Le Périgord offers a notable array of wonderful wines, sometimes even below replacement cost.
    Currently the cold appetizers range from gravlax with dill and fennel salad to house-smoked salmon with a little corn muffin, sour cream and salmon roe, or you may choose from the buffet table. Hot appetizers are considerably more interesting, including very good escargots in a hazelnut butter with chanterelles, fingerling potatoes and lovage. As many times as I have fresh foie gras as a starter, I was really enchanted with the restraint Benjamin shows with a not-too-sweet cranberry chutney cut with Meyer lemon--an ideal foil for the richness of superior foie gras. Also delicious were very tender, well-cooked sweetbreads with a harissa salad, Nicoise olives, and a sweet pepper emulsion.
     If you are in the mood for fish by all means have the perfectly rendered Dover sole meuniére (also available grilled or with mustard sauce), buttery, with the kind of texture that makes this one of the great seafood dishes in the classic repertoire. Scallops come dusted with truffle "dust," and best of all was a plate of bright yellow zucchini flowers stuffed and served with a truffle emulsion--a really fine, simple dish. For meat, the roasted veal chop with lemon sauce was a good choice, the meat pink and succulent, and slightly browned on the outside. And if you have not had roast duck in a while (personally I am extremely bored by sliced rare duck breast found everywhere), indulge yourself here: it comes crisp, the meat has plenty of flavor, and the "seasonal fruits" give it just enough sweetness to go with the fat of the bird, with none of the cloying "à l'orange" nonsense served in moribund restaurant.
    I must say I find it very difficult at Le Périgord not to take advantage of the buffet desserts, especially the perfect ouefs à la neige, wondrous little light meringues in a rich, beige-yellow crème anglaise. And they have a splendid selection of cheeses in impeccable condition. But we were in a festive mood and opted for dessert soufflés, good, old Grand Marnier pufferies, crisp and steamy and just barely eggy, lavished with crème anglaise and consumed forkful by spoonful with enormous pleasure.
      Now, those who believe such a meal must cost a fortune are in for a pleasant surprise. For while many of the top French restaurants in town charge $80 and up for a three-course meal, Le Périgord asks $62 (with supplements for lobster, the Dover sole and the veal chop), and that includes that option of taking samples of several hors d'oeuvres and desserts from the trolleys.
    I went to Le Périgord because friends from Florida wanted precisely the kind of civilized, sophisticated New York fine dining experience increasingly difficult to find. A place to talk without a din, a place where women dress beautifully, and the waitstaff is respectful, and a place that now, after nearly 40 years, is better than ever without altering its basic premise that to dine well you must want to, and the rest is up to the restaurant.

    The more wine one drinks the more discerning one should become, and over the past few months I've become distressingly disappointed in the way wines are being made in an effort to make them "winners," that is big, voluptuous, overextracted wines--not the tannic California monsters of the 1980s, but a more commercial product that shrieks bigness over refinement, grapeiness over balance, and full frontal sensationalism over elegance. I was reminded of this upon tasting an '86 Chateau Petrus recently at Le Périgord (see above)--by all counts one of the world's great vineyards--and it exceeded its reputation, even though '86 was not one of the vineyard's great years. The pronouncement of Robert Parker is that the wine was a "major disappointment" in which he found upon tasting "roasted vegetables, Japanese green tea, some smoke, a hint of sweet cherries, and some loamy, earthy, almost mushroomy notes in the background," an assessment far beyond my powers of analysis (I'm not quite up on my Japanese green teas). I think Parker should endeavor to taste it again now. I found the wine so superior to 95% of the wines I've tasted in the last three months that it was a revelation of how a balance of fruit, tannin, and mellowness can conspire to manifest all that wine should be and rarely is.
     But it's silly to dwell on wines few people will get to taste. Let me turn, then, to a wine that is far from perfect but one that shows its mettle for what it is, not what it isn't. I've always been an advocate of the Meritage movement, begun back in 1988 as a trademark for an association of California wineries that agree to produce wines made along the Bordeaux models that traditionally blend cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and other varietals--at their discretion--in an effort to give structure, balance, smoothness and levels of flavor to their wines, which was lacking in those massive 100% cabernets produced by so many California wineries in the '70s and '80s.
    At first the Meritage Association was regarded as an joke by many Napa and Sonoma wineries intent on proving that the bigger the varietal flavor the better in their wines. But since 1988 almost all those same vintners have come around to experiment and blend Bordeaux-style varietals to produce more interesting, less tannic wines. Opus One and Dominus are but two examples of what can be done when one blends, even though they do not choose to use the Meritage Association trademark. But the California wines I have liked most over the past decade have nearly all been Meritage-style wines. Last evening, to accompany a glorious porterhouse steak cooked rare, I opened an Estancia '98 Meritage, which is composed of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24 % merlot--not the most complex of blends but one that showed how the mellowing quality of one varietal, the merlot, could add so much to the sunny. bright caliber of the Cab. Make no mistake: This is a bold, not just big, California red wine--a character I love, because I hate the thought of all wines in the world trying to taste like one another. When I want a complement to porterhouse, only a California wine will do, and this was an ideal selection. It had all the tannin I'd like, and all the mellowness the merlot bestowed, a mix that led to several of flavor. No, I did not taste loam or Japanese green tea in there. I simply tasted a wine that, like the '86 Petrus, tasted like what wine should taste like--not a showpiece but a fine and delicious accompaniment to a good meal. I ask nothing more, but I so rarely get what I expect in a world of wine where hugeness overruns finesse. The Estancia is retailing for between $24-$29 in the USA.

* On New Year’s Eve Chicago’s NoMi will offer 2 seatings, at 5:30 PM for Chef Sandro Gamba’s 3-course dinner at $100 pp, and at 9:30 for a 5-course, $180 pp dinner, concluding with a champagne toast at midnight and dancing. Call 312-239-4030 or visit www.NoMIrestaurant.com.

* On New Year’s Eve Chicago’s Spiaggia will offer 3 seatings, each with a different menu created by Chef Tony Mantuano. First seating: Arrival between 5-5:45 p.m. for 3 courses at $85 pp.; Second seating: 7-7:45 p.m. for 4 courses at $110 pp; Third seating: 9-9:45 p.m. for a 9-course degustation menu, live jazz, and a glass of bubbly at $185 pp. Call 312- 280-2750. . . . The more casual Café Spiaggia will offer a 3-course menu for $35 and a 4-course menu for $45.

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Editor/Publisher: John Mariani. Contributing Writers: Robert Mariani, Naomi Kooker, Kirsten Skogerson, Edward Brivio, Robert Mariani, Mort Hochstein. Contributing Photographers: Galina Stepanoff-Dargery, Bobby Pirillo. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

John Mariani is a columnist for Esquire, Wine Spectator, Diversion and the Harper Collection. He is author of The Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink (Lebhar-Friedman), The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink (Broadway), and, with his wife Galina, the award-winning new Italian-American Cookbook (Harvard Common Press). To purchase from amazon.com, click on the image below.