MARIANI’S

            Virtual Gourmet


  April 26, 2004                                                         NEWSLETTER


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                                                                           Photo by Marion Post Wolcott, 1941

EDITOR'S NOTE: Big News! Readers may now access an Archive of all past newsletters--each annotated--dating back to July, 2003, by simply clicking on   ARCHIVE .

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Cover Story: New England, Part Two--Dining on Cape Cod by John Mariani
                      Farther Out on Cape Cod by Rob Mariani

New York Corner:  Radio Perfecto by John Mariani

Quick Bytes

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ccDINING ON CAPE COD
by John Mariani

The great arm of Cape Cod both beckons to those out at sea and caresses those who sail in the calm of the Bay, so that its earliest history as a safe haven has endured through its whaling days and well into its days as a summer tourist  destination, when its 400 square miles, from Buzzards Bay to Provincetown,  bear the brunt of the summering crowd.
     Eating out on the Cape has largely been a matter of which dockside seafood house you prefer, with legions of lobster shacks and places claiming to have the best clam chowder in New England.  Not too long ago the higher end inns offered the kind of continental fare and Yankee suppers that you could just as easily defrost in your own refrigerator. But there has been a marked change for better and better food over the past few years, led by Chillingsworth (below, left) in Brewster (2449 Main Street; 508-896-3640; www.chillingsworth.com ), set in a sprawling 300-year-old structure spread over six acres.  There are a few pretty guest rooms here, but this is a major gourmet destination, having won just about every award possible for its cuisine and wine list, as maintained by owners Pat and Nitzi Rabin, who close the place from December 1 to Mother's Day and move to Mexico, where they run a vacation home named Casa Blanca..
    ch  The landscaping depends on ancient trees and new lawns, and the place has a fine antique charm in the main dining room,  counterpointed by a modern, bright bistro on the premises where I had my most recent meal here.  In the restaurant table settings are gorgeous, the appointments sheer luxury, the draperies and linens thick  and the wineglasses exquisitely thin.  Nitzi is the chef here, and he offers sumptuous French and American cuisine in 7-course dinners at table d'hote prices of $57.50-$68.50. The Bistro (right) is far more casual, with a lighter à la carte menu, chwhose main dishes run $15-$25.50.  The skylighted premises, decorated in blond wood and terracotta tiles, are ideal for lunch or weekend brunch, and you have access to that exceptional wine list here too.
     When I was there Nitzi slipped in a couple of dishes from the restaurant menu, but the distinctions are not all that radical, so that in the restaurant you might have a seared duck breast with spicy field greens and confit with a balsamic vinegar duck sauce, while in the Bistro the duck breast comes with lentils, beets, confit and parsley ragoût with micro greens and duck sauce.  Still, the restaurant menu is far more lavish.  My lunch was just about perfect, beginning with foie gras with risotto and a richly reduced meat glaze.  Seared line-caught cod came with jicama, apple, seabeans, bacon, and cream with chervil--the very essence of sublimated New England fare, while jumbo squash and mascarpone were the filling for ravioli with pork loin in a Beaujolais-and-rosemary pork reduction.  The precision of French pastry was demonstrated in a textbook example of a chocolate pyramide with fruit. and in three impeccably creamy crème brûlées.
       Hard on the heels of Chillingsworth's reputation for fine dining, the Wequassett Inn Resort and Golf Club in Chatham (One Pleasant Bay; 508-432-5400; www.wequassett.com) has been earning justified raves for its cuisine and wine cellar at its restaurant Twenty-Eight Atlantic.  Four centuries ago the land on which the Inn now sits was Wampanoag Indian grounds, and the name Wequassett means "crescent on the water," rechristened by the English as Clam Point.  The main building, in which the restaurant is set, was originally built in the early 1800s then relocated to its current prospect in 1907. The property, now spread over 22 landscaped acres,  has been a guest house since 1925 and been expanded and upgraded to 93 rooms with 11 suites after  Mr. & Mrs. James McClennen purchased it in 1977.  Golf privileges are granted to play at the Cape Cod National Golf Club. 
  w  Twenty-Eight Atlantic (below) opened two years ago, and for its panorama over Pleasant Bay alone it is worth reserving a romantic table here.  You enter through rooms set with overstuffed chairs, past a good, gregarious bar and into a tall-ceiling, timbered dining room of white, with huge windows and beautiful chandeliers.  Period artwork and shimmering brass and country fabrics complete the warmth of the atmosphere here, and the service staff, which the owners put enormous effort into finding and maintaining, is marvelously hospitable and seem very much a part of the place.
     Chef Bill Brodksy, previously at Charleston Place, has a hearty talent for big flavors, calling his menu "Progressive New England Cuisine," the slant of which can be tasted in dishes like his delightful little cup of pea custard topped with pearls of caviar.  His Chatham "day boat" scallops and peekytoe crab are drizzled with a lemon-tarragon emulsion, and when I asked him if he had bay scallops, just then in season, he graciously obtained some for us the next night's dinner here.  Seared foie gras had a flavoring of espresso, which went extremely well with the fatted liver, but a poached pear and brioche French toast came off too sweet for the dish.  Chipotle spiked tuna  (below) had just the right bite of pepper to the richness of the sushi-grade fish and the lush texture of avocado.ch
     Among the main courses, I most enjoyed lobster poached in emulsified butter and served with a "petite clam bake" with bliss potatoes, corn pudding and asparagus.  Other entrees include pan-steamed monkfish with wilted spinach in a tomato-garlic broth; a shellfish fricassée with creamy polenta and sambuca-scented fumet, and caramelized halibut with fingerling potatoes, bacon and a touch of caviar butter.  Braised lamb shank with black currants and winter squash came out overcooked one night and only tepid in temperature. 
     There are some wonderful New England desserts here best appreciated with the "Progressive Dessert Tasting" for two or four people, which affords everyone a taste of several crème brûlées, housemade sorbets and ice creams, and a slow-roasted honey-lacquered apple with warm nut compote. 
      Prices for appetizers range from a very reasonable $7-$18, with main courses $22-$39.  There is a more casual eatery on premises named Thoreau's, as well as outdoor dining in warmer weather at the Grille.    
        The Wequassett Inn is clearly the lap of luxury in this part of the Cape, and Twenty-Eight Atlantic is getting justified raves for elevating fine dining in the region.  It all seems part of a seamless package of good taste.

Farther Out on the Cape
by Rob Mariani

    The farther out I go out on the Cape--to Truro and Wellfleet and Provincetown--the better I like out, far from the madding crowds of Barnstable and Hyannis.  One of my year-round favorites out there is the historic Martin House in Provincetown (157 Commercial Street; 508-487-1327; www.themartinhouse.com) on the Atlantic Avenue Landing, which has retained all its old 17th-century, gray shingled charm with a snug little bar, cozy dining rooms with fireplaces, and a gorgeous wisteria shaded terrace where you can  dine by lantern light and listen to the crickets and the foghorns in Provincetown Bay mh (below, right).   In the several years I've been coming here, I've always found the food nothing short of terrific, and owners Glen and Gary Martin keep it so year after year. This spring the appetizers  contain a vegan baby spinach and sweet corn risotto cakes; a seafood seviche with a lime and coconut milk marinade; and a tandoori shrimp cocktail. The Martin House Salad is a blend of  garden greens with a blueberry vinaigrette dressing, mixed dried berries and chips of crumbly blue cheese.
    My main dish was the pan-roasted duck breast, , cooked very rare (unless you specify otherwise) and accompanied by a cornmeal-coated duck sausage that added just the right spicy counter note to the rich autumnal taste of the duck. The sauce was a subtle blend of sherried peaches and molasses. Our other entrée was a baked codfish with a very New England-style horseradish crust. It was light but satisfying and accompanied by the best of the season's salad greens. Entrées are  priced from $17 to $34. The Martin House is open on through the fall and winter and I can't think of a cozier place for a romantic dinner by the fireside.
     At the other end of Commercial Street there is  Mews Restaurant & Cafe (
429 Commercial Street; 508-487-1500; www.mews.com), a mainstay  for many years that always manages to stay fresh and inviting. If it were any closer to the Bay, they'd have to issue lifejackets. The Mews (below, left) has a softly lit upstairs dining room with a sexy cocktail lounge feel to it, and a brighter ground-level dining area that opens right onto the beach itself. From either room, the view is absolutely lovely, especially at sunset. mewsBut unlike too many places with spectacular views, the food here is superb, as is the wine list.  Of particular note is their platter of Wellfleet oysters on the half-shell served with a snappy salsa dipping sauce that helps draw out the briny taste.
   My entrée was a perfectly cooked sea bass wrapped in leeks and garnished with a mild lime-butter corn sauce. We also had the grilled salmon,  a hefty piece of fish perfectly cooked and nestled on a bed of fresh greens.  The desserts are homemade, and a couple can dine very happily here with cocktails and wine for about $75.
     A few miles closer in on the Cape, in the beautiful little harbor town of Wellfleet, we stopped for lunch at the Bookstore & Restaurant  (50 Kendrick Avenue; 508-349-3154; www.bookstorerestaurant.com) overlooking the Wellfleet Harbor. bkThis is a typical casual indoor-outdoor restaurant where the emphasis is on freshness (right). They're open year-round and serve lunch daily from noon to 4pm. They have a raw bar with items taken directly from the harbor across the street--Wellfeet oysters, Littlenecks, and mussels.  We dined on the deck with the early spring sun to warm us and the breeze from the water to cool us. I had their fabulous oyster stew. It was a meal in itself with a creamy broth and lots of slippery, delectable oysters. The list of entrees here is long and ranges from crab cakes and Portuguese stew to native scallops, fish and chips, egg plant or chicken parmigiana, as well as man-sized burgers and sandwiches and salads. Luncheon entrees run from  $10 to $18.
   When I visit the Cape in the off seasons, I'm always impressed, not only by its primordial beauty, but by the fragility of that beauty. In just a few more generations, there will be very little of it left, I'm afraid; which makes it all the more precious. Luckily for us, there are still plenty of golden days left before winter to enjoy this very special part of New England.


NEW YORK CORNER

Radio Perfecto
1187 Amsterdam Avenue
212-932-0707

     When I was a semi-struggling graduate student at Columbia University back in those giddy days of SDS, poetry readings by Allen Ginzburg, screenings of nouvelle vague films, and endless renditions of "We Shall Overcome" sung on the steps of Low Library, Morningside Heights was not exactly a hotbed of good restaurants, and venturing out at night onto Amsterdam Avenue was not recommended in the student handbooks, since mugging was then a neighborhood sport. Most of the local eateries, like the forlorn Hungarian place turtlenecked professors would take impressionable Barnard students,  never  rose above the dreadful level of the Columbia cafeteria.  There was, however,  for those rich enough to afford it, the wonderful Terrace restaurant on the penthouse floor of Butler Hall, with a grand panorama of the city to the south, the Palisades to the west, Harlem and the Bronx to the north, and the East River to the east.
     barThese days, the neighborhood (which has unofficially acquired the silly sobriquet of SoHa) is bustling, and street crime, as everywhere in NYC, is way down, so new restaurants of note have sprouted and brought vitality to the area, none more happily than Radio Perfecto,  an offshoot of the Lower East Side original opened by Arthur Tullman and Scott Sandler.  This new one has 70 seats (with outdoor seating added this spring), and the beauty of the place is in its deceptively simple but right-on-the-mark American bar & grill decor, with dark wood, leather banquettes, and art deco-style chairs.  On shelves reside vintage Bakelite radios and antique flashlights, and the 24-foot wood-and-zinc bar (left) is a beauty, lighted by chandeliers fashioned from 1950s flashlights.  Unfortunately the low lighting in the rest of the restaurant does little to show off the charm of the antique items.  The decibel level is admirably held down by the installation of cork floors, the service staff couldn't be friendlier, and the crowd seems a mix of university regulars and, on weekends, visitors from all over town, maybe even Jersey.
     Chef Anthony Cruz, formerly of City Hall and the Cub Room, is as careful about every item of American culinaria on his menu as a French cuisinier is about his classic repertoire.  In fact, you begin to realize how really, really delicious so much American prole food can be when you tuck into Cruz' platter of Buffalo chicken wings in all their red hot glory, with a crumbled blue cheese dressing.  Also very persuasive are his jumbo lump crabmeat cakes with corn-and-cilantro salad and a chipotle dipping sauce.  With a name like Cruz you can depend on good renditions of his chicken quesadilla with onions and pico de gallo, and his empanadas specials.
    The man makes a terrific hamburger--something I, in my gastronomic wanderings, crave and rarely ever get to eat--this one just the right height and mass, beefy and succulent throughout, and served with lettuce and tomatoes,  The French fries, depending on which batch you get, may be either perfectly  crisp or sadly limp.  Baby back ribs come off well, nicely smoky, with garlic mashed potatoes on the side, and he knows how to roast a chicken to perfection. Need I mention that portions are very generous?
     The menu proudly announces all desserts are made at the restaurant, and the first bite of coconut Key lime pie tells you this ain't no lie.  It's a superb example, tangy-sweet, with the tropical flavor of coconut as lagniappe.  But how can you pass up chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream in a place like this? 
     There are some signature cocktails, a decent list of beers, and tequilas, but the wine list is nothing to get excited about and should be better.
      Prices are nice and gentle, so that even a Columbia grad student can afford to nosh here now and again, with main courses $7.95 (for the burger) to $15.95 (for hanger steak)--which back in the day when I went to school here would have been a major investment for a serious date evening.  I just wish I'd had a place as good as Radio Perfecto to go to back then.


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A Book Just Begging for a Blurb from Rasputinq

"Desserts That Have Killed Better Men Than Me (Morrow Cookbooks) was a title that came to me in a dream.  Or possibly I was awake.  Sometimes it is hard to tell the difference.  Anyhow it is a title that deserves an actual book to go with it.  The basic idea behind the title is that all the desserts in the book are so good they're dangerous. Lethal, in some instances."--Author Jeremy Jackson






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GET THE GUY’S NUMBER. HE’LL PROBABLY GET OUT OF JAIL JUST ABOUT THE TIME YOU NEED ANOTHER CLEANING

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According to the Houston Chronicle, a man allegedly trying to break into the Rotisserie for Beef and Bird restaurant got wedged into the chimney upon his escape attempt.  “In all the years I’ve had this restaurant, I’ve never had the chimney cleaned,” said owner Joe Mannke. “Now I don’t have to.”









QUICK BYTES


MOTHER’S DAY

* DC’s Henley Park Hotel  holds a  "By Request" Jazz Brunch  that allows sons and daughters to pay tribute to mom with a tune requested when making their brunch reservation. $40 pp, $15 for children. Call 202-
414-0512. . . . Bora Bora Lagoon Resort, Tahiti, offers a 4-day spa sensation package, with fitness breakfast and spa treatment, 3-course lunch and dinners, (in room or in the restaurant), and full use of the fitness facilities. $2,874 per couple; Call 1-800-860-4095 or visit www.boraboralagoonresort.orient-express.com. . . . Charleston Place Hotel in Charleston, SC, offers a 2-night package of accommodations on the Club Level,  complimentary beverage service, continental breakfast, afternoon tea, evening cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, and after-dinner cordials with desserts; a welcome package; wine and cheese; dinner at the Charleston Grill accompanied by a fine selection of vintage wines; spa treatments; waffle robe;  $1,708.  Call 1-800-611-5545 or www.charlestonplacehotel.com . . . .The Inn at Perry Cabin in St. Michaels, MD, offers a Mom’s Care package on special weekends throughout the year. guaranteeing  there are no guests under 16 years of age; late breakfasts, complimentary wine tastings, and cooking demonstrations.  Package rates start at $275. Call 410-745-2200 or visit www.perrycabin.com . . . . Keswick Hall at Monticello, Charlottesville, VA, offers a one-night “Bed, Breakfast and Baby Butler” package designed for moms not quite ready to leave home without their children: Breakfast for two, afternoon tea and the services of the hotel’s on-staff Baby Butler who assists mothers with their youngest children.  $325 per night.  Call  1-800-274-5391 or www.keswick.com. . . . The Beverly Hills Hotel and Polo Lounge offer a 3-Course Champagne.  A long-stemmed pink rose for each mother, live music. $65 for adults and $33 for children under 12.  Mothers can also be pampered at the Wedgwood Afternoon Tea, featuring classic tea in the Sunset Lounge from 2:00-6:00 pm; $25 pp.  Call 310-281-2941. . . . Chicago’s  Pop’s will hold a Mother’s Day Champagne Celebration, a day early on May 8, with live jazz music and  special prices on Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame—$18.50 per glass and $150 per bottle. $10 cover. Call 773-472-1000 or visit www.popsforchampange.com . . . .Chicago’s Heaven on Seven (with 4 locations) will serve a traditional New Orleans-style Mother’s Day brunch. Call:  111 N. Wabash – 312-263-6443; 600 N. Michigan Avenue – 312-280-7774; 3478 N. Clark Street – 773-477-7818. .  . . Chicago's Bistro 110 Executive Chef Dominique Tougné will lead a Fête de Meres (Mother's Day) cooking class on May 4 of 3 innovative recipes, followed by a cocktail reception. $40 pp. Call 312- 266-3114. . . . Windsor Court Hotel in New Orleans offers a Suite Indulgence package with in-room spa service; the services from a personal shopper; afternoon tea; 2 nights of suite accommodations. $790. Call 1-800-262-2662 or www.windsorcourthotel.com. . . .  Washington, D.C. Chef Jamie Leeds creates a $45 Mother's Day Brunch menu at 15 ria, with a chance to win a trip for two to NYC at the Roosevelt Hotel and a $100 gift certificate to a pre-theater dinner at the  Tribeca Grill, and two tix to “Mama Mia”; Call 202-RIA-0015. . . . NYC’s Tocqueville will offer a la carte or as a tasting menu at $75; Call 212-647-1515. . . . Atlanta’s Seeger’s will offer both a 5--course tasting menu for $69 pp, , with optional wine pairings $55 pp, and a 6-course tasting menu at $75 pp, with wines  $60 pp.  Call 404-846-9779; www.seegers.com

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To celebrate its inaugural new name month, JOSEPHS in NYC is offering dinner on the house to ten Josephs a day. Offer is valid throughout May.  Reservations are required.  Must have "Joseph" as a first name. Valid photo ID must be presented. Limit one meal per Joseph. Beverages and gratuities not included. Call 212-332-1515.

* From May 1-5 The Third Annual Philadelphia Wine Festival will be held, bringing in 125 of the world's  winemakers, with a series of celebrity chef seminars, 2 evenings of 37 winemaker dinners This year, Chef Masaharu Morimoto will be the special guest chef at the Grand Tasting. Tix  can be purchased by calling 215-781-7700 or visit www.phillymag.com.

* On May 3 the 14th Annual Windows on Long Island Wine will take place at NYC’s Capitale restaurant, with 30 wineries represented, hosted by Gordon Elliott of the TV Food Network, Kevin Zraly of Windows on the World Wine School, Thomas Matthews of Wine Spectator, and wine writer Mary Ewing-Mulligan. At least a dozen NYC restaurants will serve dishes. Tix $150 pp. Visit www.earthpledge.com; 212-725-6611.

* On May 2 St. Francis Winery’s BIG RED, a walk-around chef tasting on will be held at The Park Hyatt Hotel in L.A.   Participating  restaurants include: 555 East; Arnie Mortons; of Chicago; Aubergine; Bacara Resort; Blue on Blue; Buggy Whip; Cezanne; EM Bistro; Katana; Le Dome; Luce; Maple Drive; Mr. Cecil’s California Ribs; Napa Valley Grille; Park Grill; Ruth’s Chris Steak House; Sona; The Belvedere; and La Conversation. Proceeds will benefit the American Institute of Wine and Food Days of Taste and scholarship fund. Tix  $100 ($90 for AIWF members). Call 818- 902-3724. 

* On May 4 a wine tasting dinner hosted by NYC’s Il Buco,  featuring Maria Helm Sinskey, chef &  author of The Vineyard Kitche, with wines from the Robert Sinskey Winery.  Il Buco will prepare a 6-course menu. $95 pp. Call 212-533-1932.

* On May 4 artist Rino  Li Causi will have a one-man show  of paintings "Celebrating New York"(to run through June 29) at Ennio and Michael  in NYC, followed by a 4-course dinner with wines at $50 pp.  Call 212-677-8577. 

* On May 6 the  The Loire Valley Wine Bureau  and Share Our Strength will be hosting a  “A Wine Tour of the Loire Valley” in NYC,  a tasting devoted entirely  to the wines of the region, from 20 producers. A cheese buffet as well as hors  d’oeuvres presented by chefs will complete the experience. Location: Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 West 18th Street; Admission: $35, $20 of which will benefit S.O.S. To purchase tickets visit www.loirevalleywine.com/events/winetour.html

* On May 7 & 8 Chef Jacques Bruno Ménard of Atlanta’s Ritz-Carlton Buckhead, and Jacques Torres of the TV Food Network will give a culinary demo and host dinners at the Ritz-Carlton Lodge, Reynolds Plantation as part of a  “Culinary Delights Weekend Package,” including accommodations for 2 evenings; demo by Jacques Torres on chocolate centerpieces; Southern Afternoon Tea; 8-course dinner for two in Georgia's restaurant on  by Bruno Ménard and chef Scott Haegele; a copy of Torres’ Dessert Circus At Hom;  $425 per evening; 2 night stay required. Call 800-241-3333 or 706-467-0600; visit www.ritzcarlton.com.

* On May 17 Chef Marcus Samuelsson and Håkan Swahn of NYC’s Aquavit join forces with Alessia Antinori from the Antinori Family Winery for a  6-course pairing of Italian wine and Scandinavian cuisine,  to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Tignanello, with 4 four vintages.  $150 pp. Call 212-307-7311.

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Readers may now access an Archive of all past newsletters--each annotated--dating back to July, 2003, by simply clicking on   ARCHIVE .

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MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Editor/Publisher: John Mariani. Contributing Writers: Robert Mariani,  Naomi  Kooker, Kirsten Skogerson,  Edward Brivio, Mort Hochstein, Lucy Gordan. Contributing Photographers: Galina Stepanoff-Dargery,  Bobby Pirillo. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 John Mariani is a columnist for Esquire, Wine Spectator, Diversion and the Harper Collection. He is author of The Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink (Lebhar-Friedman), The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink (Broadway), and, with his wife Galina, the award-winning new Italian-American Cookbook (Harvard Common Press).   To  purchase from amazon.com, click on the image below.

 ital-am

copyright John Mariani 2004