![]() EDITOR'S NOTE: Big News! Readers may now access an Archive of all past newsletters--each annotated--dating back to July, 2003, by simply clicking on ARCHIVE . ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Farther Out on Cape Cod by Rob Mariani New York Corner: Radio Perfecto by John Mariani Quick Bytes ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ DINING ON CAPE CODby John Mariani The great arm of Cape Cod both beckons to those out at sea and caresses those who sail in the calm of the Bay, so that its earliest history as a safe haven has endured through its whaling days and well into its days as a summer tourist destination, when its 400 square miles, from Buzzards Bay to Provincetown, bear the brunt of the summering crowd. Eating out on the Cape has largely been a matter of which dockside seafood house you prefer, with legions of lobster shacks and places claiming to have the best clam chowder in New England. Not too long ago the higher end inns offered the kind of continental fare and Yankee suppers that you could just as easily defrost in your own refrigerator. But there has been a marked change for better and better food over the past few years, led by Chillingsworth (below, left) in Brewster (2449 Main Street; 508-896-3640; www.chillingsworth.com ), set in a sprawling 300-year-old structure spread over six acres. There are a few pretty guest rooms here, but this is a major gourmet destination, having won just about every award possible for its cuisine and wine list, as maintained by owners Pat and Nitzi Rabin, who close the place from December 1 to Mother's Day and move to Mexico, where they run a vacation home named Casa Blanca..
The landscaping depends on ancient trees and new lawns, and the place
has a fine antique charm in the main dining room, counterpointed
by a modern, bright bistro on the premises where I had my most recent
meal here. In the restaurant table settings are gorgeous, the
appointments sheer luxury, the draperies and linens thick and the
wineglasses exquisitely thin. Nitzi is the chef here, and he
offers sumptuous French and American cuisine in 7-course dinners at
table d'hote prices of $57.50-$68.50. The Bistro (right) is far more casual,
with a lighter à la carte menu, whose main dishes run $15-$25.50.
The
skylighted premises, decorated in blond wood and terracotta tiles, are
ideal for lunch or weekend brunch, and you have access to that
exceptional wine list here too.
When I was there Nitzi slipped in a couple of dishes from the
restaurant menu, but the distinctions are not all that radical, so that
in the restaurant you might have a seared duck breast with spicy field
greens and confit with a balsamic vinegar duck sauce, while in the
Bistro the duck breast comes with lentils, beets, confit and parsley
ragoût with micro greens and duck sauce. Still, the
restaurant menu is far more lavish. My lunch was just about
perfect, beginning with foie gras with risotto and a richly reduced
meat glaze. Seared line-caught cod came with jicama, apple,
seabeans, bacon, and cream with chervil--the very essence of sublimated
New England fare, while jumbo squash and mascarpone were the filling
for ravioli with pork loin in a Beaujolais-and-rosemary pork
reduction. The precision of French pastry was demonstrated in a
textbook example of a chocolate pyramide with fruit. and in three
impeccably creamy crème brûlées.
Hard on the heels of Chillingsworth's reputation for fine
dining, the Wequassett Inn Resort and Golf Club in Chatham (One Pleasant Bay; 508-432-5400;
www.wequassett.com) has been earning justified raves for its
cuisine and wine cellar at its restaurant Twenty-Eight
Atlantic. Four centuries ago the land on which the Inn now sits
was Wampanoag Indian grounds, and the name Wequassett means "crescent
on the water," rechristened by the English as Clam
Point. The main building, in which the restaurant is set, was
originally built in the early 1800s then relocated to its current
prospect in 1907. The property, now spread over 22 landscaped
acres, has been a guest house since 1925 and been
expanded and upgraded to 93 rooms
with 11 suites after
Mr. & Mrs. James McClennen purchased it in 1977. Golf
privileges are
granted to play at the Cape Cod National Golf Club.
Twenty-Eight Atlantic (below) opened two years ago, and
for its panorama over Pleasant Bay alone it is worth reserving a
romantic table here. You enter through rooms set with overstuffed
chairs, past a good, gregarious bar and into a tall-ceiling, timbered
dining room of white, with huge windows and beautiful
chandeliers. Period artwork and shimmering brass and country
fabrics complete the warmth of the atmosphere here, and the service
staff, which the owners put enormous effort into finding and
maintaining, is marvelously hospitable and seem very much a part of the
place. Chef Bill Brodksy, previously at Charleston Place, has a hearty talent for big flavors, calling his menu "Progressive New England Cuisine," the slant of which can be tasted in dishes like his delightful little cup of pea custard topped with pearls of caviar. His Chatham "day boat" scallops and peekytoe crab are drizzled with a lemon-tarragon emulsion, and when I asked him if he had bay scallops, just then in season, he graciously obtained some for us the next night's dinner here. Seared foie gras had a flavoring of espresso, which went extremely well with the fatted liver, but a poached pear and brioche French toast came off too sweet for the dish. Chipotle spiked tuna (below) had just the right bite of pepper to the richness of the sushi-grade fish and the lush texture of avocado. Among the main courses, I most enjoyed lobster poached in emulsified butter and served with a "petite clam bake" with bliss potatoes, corn pudding and asparagus. Other entrees include pan-steamed monkfish with wilted spinach in a tomato-garlic broth; a shellfish fricassée with creamy polenta and sambuca-scented fumet, and caramelized halibut with fingerling potatoes, bacon and a touch of caviar butter. Braised lamb shank with black currants and winter squash came out overcooked one night and only tepid in temperature. There are some wonderful New England desserts here best appreciated with the "Progressive Dessert Tasting" for two or four people, which affords everyone a taste of several crème brûlées, housemade sorbets and ice creams, and a slow-roasted honey-lacquered apple with warm nut compote. Prices for appetizers range from a very reasonable $7-$18, with main courses $22-$39. There is a more casual eatery on premises named Thoreau's, as well as outdoor dining in warmer weather at the Grille. The Wequassett Inn is clearly the lap of luxury in this part of the Cape, and Twenty-Eight Atlantic is getting justified raves for elevating fine dining in the region. It all seems part of a seamless package of good taste. Farther Out on the Cape
by Rob Mariani The farther out I go out on the Cape--to Truro and Wellfleet and Provincetown--the better I like out, far from the madding crowds of Barnstable and Hyannis. One of my year-round favorites out there is the historic Martin House in Provincetown (157 Commercial Street; 508-487-1327; www.themartinhouse.com) on the Atlantic Avenue Landing, which has retained all its old 17th-century, gray shingled charm with a snug little bar, cozy dining rooms with fireplaces, and a gorgeous wisteria shaded terrace where you can dine by lantern light and listen to the crickets and the foghorns in Provincetown Bay (below,
right). In the several years I've been coming here, I've
always found the food nothing short of terrific, and owners Glen and
Gary Martin keep it so year after year. This spring the
appetizers contain a vegan baby spinach and sweet corn risotto
cakes; a seafood seviche with a lime and coconut milk marinade; and a
tandoori shrimp cocktail. The Martin House Salad is a blend of
garden greens with a blueberry vinaigrette dressing, mixed dried
berries and chips of crumbly blue cheese. My main dish was the pan-roasted duck breast, , cooked very rare (unless you specify otherwise) and accompanied by a cornmeal-coated duck sausage that added just the right spicy counter note to the rich autumnal taste of the duck. The sauce was a subtle blend of sherried peaches and molasses. Our other entrée was a baked codfish with a very New England-style horseradish crust. It was light but satisfying and accompanied by the best of the season's salad greens. Entrées are priced from $17 to $34. The Martin House is open on through the fall and winter and I can't think of a cozier place for a romantic dinner by the fireside. At the other end of Commercial Street there is Mews Restaurant & Cafe (429 Commercial Street; 508-487-1500; www.mews.com), a mainstay for many years that always manages to stay fresh and inviting. If it were any closer to the Bay, they'd have to issue lifejackets. The Mews (below, left) has a softly lit upstairs dining room with a sexy cocktail lounge feel to it, and a brighter ground-level dining area that opens right onto the beach itself. From either room, the view is absolutely lovely, especially at sunset. But unlike too many places with spectacular
views, the food here is superb, as is the wine list. Of
particular note is their platter of Wellfleet oysters on the half-shell
served with a snappy salsa dipping sauce that helps draw out the briny
taste. My entrée was a perfectly cooked sea bass wrapped in leeks and garnished with a mild lime-butter corn sauce. We also had the grilled salmon, a hefty piece of fish perfectly cooked and nestled on a bed of fresh greens. The desserts are homemade, and a couple can dine very happily here with cocktails and wine for about $75. A few miles closer in on the Cape, in the beautiful little harbor town of Wellfleet, we stopped for lunch at the Bookstore & Restaurant (50 Kendrick Avenue; 508-349-3154; www.bookstorerestaurant.com) overlooking the Wellfleet Harbor. This is a typical casual indoor-outdoor restaurant where
the emphasis is on freshness (right).
They're open year-round and serve lunch daily from noon to 4pm. They
have a raw bar with items taken directly from the harbor across the
street--Wellfeet oysters, Littlenecks, and mussels. We dined on
the deck with the early spring sun to warm us and the breeze from the
water to cool us. I had their fabulous oyster stew. It was a meal in
itself with a creamy broth and lots of slippery, delectable oysters.
The list of entrees here is long and ranges from crab cakes and
Portuguese stew to native scallops, fish and chips, egg plant or
chicken parmigiana, as well as man-sized burgers and sandwiches and
salads. Luncheon entrees run from $10 to $18. When I visit the Cape in the off seasons, I'm always impressed, not only by its primordial beauty, but by the fragility of that beauty. In just a few more generations, there will be very little of it left, I'm afraid; which makes it all the more precious. Luckily for us, there are still plenty of golden days left before winter to enjoy this very special part of New England. NEW YORK CORNER Radio Perfecto 1187 Amsterdam Avenue 212-932-0707 When
I was a semi-struggling
graduate student at Columbia University back in those giddy days of
SDS, poetry readings by Allen Ginzburg, screenings of nouvelle vague
films, and endless renditions of "We Shall Overcome" sung on the steps
of Low Library, Morningside Heights was not exactly a hotbed of good
restaurants, and venturing out at night onto Amsterdam Avenue was not
recommended in the student handbooks, since mugging was
then a neighborhood sport. Most of the local eateries, like the forlorn
Hungarian place turtlenecked professors would take impressionable
Barnard students, never rose above the dreadful
level of the Columbia cafeteria. There was, however, for
those rich enough to
afford
it, the wonderful Terrace restaurant on the penthouse floor of Butler
Hall, with a grand panorama of the city to the south, the
Palisades to the west, Harlem and the Bronx to the north, and the East
River to the east.
These days, the neighborhood (which has unofficially
acquired the silly sobriquet of SoHa) is bustling, and
street crime, as everywhere in NYC, is way down, so new restaurants of
note
have sprouted and brought vitality to the area, none more happily than Radio Perfecto,
an
offshoot of the Lower East Side original opened by Arthur
Tullman and Scott Sandler. This new one has 70 seats (with
outdoor seating added this spring), and the beauty of the place is in
its deceptively simple but right-on-the-mark American bar & grill
decor, with dark wood, leather banquettes, and art deco-style
chairs. On shelves reside vintage
Bakelite radios and antique flashlights, and the 24-foot wood-and-zinc
bar (left) is a beauty,
lighted by chandeliers fashioned
from 1950s flashlights. Unfortunately the low
lighting in the rest of the restaurant does little to show off the
charm of the antique items. The decibel level is admirably held
down by the installation of cork floors, the service staff couldn't be
friendlier, and the crowd seems a mix of university regulars and, on
weekends, visitors from all over town, maybe even Jersey. Chef Anthony Cruz, formerly of City Hall and the Cub Room, is as careful about every item of American culinaria on his menu as a French cuisinier is about his classic repertoire. In fact, you begin to realize how really, really delicious so much American prole food can be when you tuck into Cruz' platter of Buffalo chicken wings in all their red hot glory, with a crumbled blue cheese dressing. Also very persuasive are his jumbo lump crabmeat cakes with corn-and-cilantro salad and a chipotle dipping sauce. With a name like Cruz you can depend on good renditions of his chicken quesadilla with onions and pico de gallo, and his empanadas specials. The man makes a terrific hamburger--something I, in my gastronomic wanderings, crave and rarely ever get to eat--this one just the right height and mass, beefy and succulent throughout, and served with lettuce and tomatoes, The French fries, depending on which batch you get, may be either perfectly crisp or sadly limp. Baby back ribs come off well, nicely smoky, with garlic mashed potatoes on the side, and he knows how to roast a chicken to perfection. Need I mention that portions are very generous? The menu proudly announces all desserts are made at the restaurant, and the first bite of coconut Key lime pie tells you this ain't no lie. It's a superb example, tangy-sweet, with the tropical flavor of coconut as lagniappe. But how can you pass up chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream in a place like this? There are some signature cocktails, a decent list of beers, and tequilas, but the wine list is nothing to get excited about and should be better. Prices are nice and gentle, so that even a Columbia grad student can afford to nosh here now and again, with main courses $7.95 (for the burger) to $15.95 (for hanger steak)--which back in the day when I went to school here would have been a major investment for a serious date evening. I just wish I'd had a place as good as Radio Perfecto to go to back then. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ A Book Just Begging for a Blurb from Rasputin ![]() "Desserts That Have Killed Better Men
Than Me (Morrow Cookbooks) was a title that came to me in a
dream. Or possibly I was awake. Sometimes it is hard to
tell the difference. Anyhow it is a title that deserves an actual
book to go with it. The basic idea behind the title is that all
the desserts in the book are so good they're dangerous. Lethal, in some
instances."--Author Jeremy Jackson
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ GET THE GUY’S NUMBER. HE’LL PROBABLY GET OUT OF JAIL JUST ABOUT THE TIME YOU NEED ANOTHER CLEANING ![]() According to the Houston Chronicle, a man allegedly trying to break into the Rotisserie for Beef and Bird restaurant got wedged into the chimney upon his escape attempt. “In all the years I’ve had this restaurant, I’ve never had the chimney cleaned,” said owner Joe Mannke. “Now I don’t have to.” QUICK BYTES MOTHER’S DAY *
DC’s Henley
Park Hotel holds a
"By Request" Jazz Brunch that
allows sons and daughters to pay tribute to mom with
a tune
requested when making their brunch reservation. $40 pp, $15 for
children. Call
202-
414-0512. . . . Bora Bora Lagoon Resort, * To celebrate its inaugural new name month, JOSEPHS in NYC is offering dinner on the house to ten Josephs a day. Offer is valid throughout May. Reservations are required. Must have "Joseph" as a first name. Valid photo ID must be presented. Limit one meal per Joseph. Beverages and gratuities not included. Call 212-332-1515. * From May 1-5 The Third Annual Philadelphia Wine Festival will be held, bringing in 125 of the world's winemakers, with a series of celebrity chef seminars, 2 evenings of 37 winemaker dinners This year, Chef Masaharu Morimoto will be the special guest chef at the Grand Tasting. Tix can be purchased by calling 215-781-7700 or visit www.phillymag.com.
*
On May 3 the 14th Annual Windows on * On
May 2 * On
May 4 a wine tasting dinner hosted by NYC’s Il
Buco, featuring Maria Helm Sinskey,
chef
& author of The Vineyard Kitche, with wines
from the Robert Sinskey Winery. Il
Buco will prepare a 6-course menu. $95
pp. Call 212-533-1932. * On
May 4 artist Rino Li Causi will have a one-man show of
paintings "Celebrating New York"(to run through June 29) at Ennio and Michael in NYC,
followed by a 4-course dinner with wines at $50 pp. Call
212-677-8577. * On May 6 the The
Loire Valley Wine Bureau and Share
Our Strength will be hosting a “A Wine
Tour of the ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ MARIANI'S VIRTUAL
GOURMET NEWSLETTER is
published weekly. Editor/Publisher: John
Mariani.
Contributing Writers: Robert Mariani,
Naomi
Kooker, Kirsten Skogerson, Edward Brivio,
Mort Hochstein, Lucy Gordan. Contributing Photographers: Galina
Stepanoff-Dargery,
Bobby Pirillo. Technical Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. copyright John Mariani 2004 |