Virtual Gourmet

EDITOR'S NOTE: Readers may now access an Archive of all past newsletters--each annotated--dating back to July, 2003, by simply clicking on ARCHIVE .

A mini-shock wave blew through L.A.'s restaurant landscape last month with the announcements that: one of the city's finest chefs--Alain Giraud--had been let go at what was last year's most heralded new French restaurant, Bastide; the esteemed chef Michael Cimarusti's was leaving Water Grill, blowing a big hole in the skimpy fine dining scene downtown; and that the chef and managers of the well-regarded Opaline had also cut themselves free from one of the hippest new restaurants on the burgeoning Beverly Boulevard Strip. Not long before that, L'Orangerie lost its celebrated chef Christophe Emé, and the closing of Ginza Sushi-Ko so that sushi master Masa Takayama could relocate to NYC sent sushi fanatics into a tailspin. Just when L.A. seemed to be rousing itself from the culinary gimmickry that drove the '90s and things seemed to be getting serious again with tasteful, amiable restaurants like Sona and Grace (reviewed here at : http://pages.prodigy.net/johnmariani/030915/ ), it now seems things are slip-sliding away.
To the rescue, however, has come the extraordinary reincarnation of Patina, relocated after a decade on Melrose Avenue to a space adjacent to the Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Music Center (which I reviewed it in the May 15th issue of Wine Spectator), giving downtown new promise for fine dining. Here, then, the first of two reports on Los Angeles dining.

The Hotel Bel-Air (701 Stone Canyon Road; 310-472-5234) has never been less than exquisitely beautiful, tucked away in the most quiet section of Los Angeles imaginable and difficult enough to find that it keeps curiosity seekers at bay. If you do manage to maneuver your way through the maze of curving streets in this bucolic, ultra-wealthy neighborhood, you'll find the comings-and-goings of the hotel's celebrities much easier to spot than a Ford Escort pulling into the driveway. Easily the most elegant of all Los Angeles' deluxe lodgings, the Bel Air also has the best, most genteel service staff, one that must deal with the demands and shenanigans of those who believe they are privileged and exist only to be pampered. Nevertheless, by mutual consent, such people are carefully kept out of sight, unless they don't wish to be. But throughout the sprawling, garden-rich, river run landscape of the hotel, the only sounds you are likely to hear at this retreat are birds, geese, trickling water, and cell phones.
     Dining on the terrace near the pool area (below, right) is quite lovely either at lunch or in twilight, the tables full of taut-skinned ladies in pink linen suits, impossibly tan studio execs in open neck shirts, and a celeb or two being interviewed by a ga-ga reporter from Los Angeles Confidential. The main dining room (above) is so sumptuously tasteful in all its appointments that it seems an oasis within an oasis, where new young chef Douglas Dodd manages to please everyone while pleasing his own instincts for a simple but imaginative French and Southern-Cal cuisine that might begin with diver's scallops sautéed with braised bacon and leeks with butternut squash; or a wonderful, creamy lobster soup with mushrooms and a touch of chevril; he does a duet of foie gras items, one seared fresh and accompanied by a quail egg and a lush shallot marmalade; the other a pear poached with a torchon of the liver with pomegranate syrup. Truffled potato soup is a triumph of refined taste, served with a mini-croque monsieur cheese sandwich. There are effulgent California style salads here too that make for a lovely lunch. The only item on a recent menu I found odd was a delicate parfait of crab set on the same plate with a very spicy "firecracker" prawn and an unnecessarily smoked foie gras torchon.
   If you are well disposed to abalone (which needs a lot of patient attention in any kitchen) try Dodd's, flash-seared baby abalone with saffron capellini, bottarga, French beans, and domestic caviar. For entrees consider the grilled Colorado lamb chop and huckleberry short rib with a golden eggplant-caulilfower mousse and the pleasant sweet-tanginess of a sun-dried tomato jus. Or go with the almond-dusted Pacific grouper with broccolini, water chestnuts and shiitakes in an Asian lemon-miso sauce. Stay simple and be happy with a sautéed Dover sole with scallop-filled zucchini blossoms and a lemon-caper jus, or get a bit edgier with grilled and braised antelope with a ragoût of gnocchi, wild mushrooms, and baby Brussels sprouts, a dish that just skirts tumbling into overload.
     There are excellent artisans' cheese offered, along with big California desserts like Robert Witkoski's chocolate toffee and praline parfait with dark chocolate "blackout" cake, and even a plate of freshly baked cookies, madeleines, and shortbread. The ravishing "Gazebo on Swan Lake" is a chocolat marquise with vanilla ice cream.
    Sommelier Roland Venturini keeps one of the finest wine cellars in the west, with a Grand Award from Wine Spectator, rich in every category and the usual California "cult wines" are all here at prices quite a bit below what you might expect for such rarities is a place of such posh..
    Dinner appetizers at the Bel Air run $12-$22, entrees $22-$48, with a 5-course tasting menu at $65, with wines $85. There is, incidentally, a "Table One" set inside the kitchen, where you can watch Chef Dodd prepare a meal specially for you.

   hjmm

Most veteran Los Angeleno gourmets still remember the glory days of one of Hollywood's major show biz hang-outs, Le Dôme ( 8720 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood; 310-659-6919), which after a quarter century in business closed last year, leaving behind a legacy of "power lunches" with Sly Stallone, Don Rickles, and Kirk Douglas, and "Ladies' Tables" full of gossiping hostesses and kvetching agents dithering over Caesar salads. Its hey-day was long-lived, butby the mid-'90s Le Dôme was severely in need of both decorous and customer refreshening. So owner Eddie Kerhofs took on partners Ronald Tutor and David Bergstein, poured in a few million bucks, and hired designer Dodd Mitchell to bring Le Dôme into the 21st century without tampering too much with its Sunset Boulevard glamour.   The colors are muted in dark browns and copper, with deep banquettes, a shaded terrace, and a widescreen TV over a fireplace that broadcasts a video fire (the real fireplace caught on fire, oops!). The famous circular bar (left) is now surrounded by Egyptian columns and set with a firebox below. Not much of it looks like the Renaissance Italian villa it is intended to resemble, but it's a very comfortable spot with a distinct Old Hollywood snazziness.
    The owners have hired a formidable chef in Sam Marvin, who garnered justified praise at his last gig at Modada.   Here he is performing a deft balancing act by redeeming and refining old classic California dishes like steak tartare, pheasant under glass, and mussels "Belgium style." His modernism shows in items that are careful, not excessive, as with his creamy foie gras torchon with muscat-vanilla gastrique and caramelized apple dice; air-dried duck served crisp, with Himalayan red fried rice, duck skin, and apple-curry sauce; and bouillabaisse "Le Dôme style," in a spicy lobster broth. For something elegantly light, try his Japanese tomato consommé with a rainbow of heirloom tomatoes, and his rouget sautéed with sage on English peas and a carrot-ginger blood orange sauce is just about perfect. For those wishing to eschew all notions of dieting, by all means order the sensational slow-cooked veal medallion on top of white truffle potato ravioli with a red wine reduction sauce and shaved Alba white truffles.
    And it's nice to know a serious L.A. restaurant that's open for lunch Mon. through Sat. in a town whose idea of lunch is a salad and iced tea. The wine list is only fair at this point, but you won't go thirsty for your favorites. Main courses at Le Dôme run $22-$50 and starters $12-$23.
   Le Dôme seems to be clicking with the Hollywood crowd again, with sightings of Danny DeVito, John Elway, David Spade, Christopher Lambert, and--dare I breathe her name?--Jackie Collins. Le Dôme is that kind of place.

British-born Chef Robert Gadsby has two reputations, one for being highly imaginative in his kitchen, and another for leaving it on short notice and going elsewhere, as he's done in the past at Xiomara, Luna Park, and Gadsby's. Though his tenure at Noé is going on a year now, one never knows. I found his cooking overreaching into fusionary giddiness best seen in one of his 6-course ($65) or 9-course ($95) tasting menus. Otherwise appetizers run $9-$19 and main courses $21-$29. The wine list is minimal, with about 100 selections.

From first dish to last the food is precious and exacerbated by too many ideas and ingredients, like his gingered butternut squash cappuccino with "almond cloud" and toasted hazelnut "veil"; foie gras with cinnamon raisin hmn

club with roasted pear and satsuma tangerine gelée; Arctic char with cipollini onions, artichoke barigoule, tomato confit, and truffle jus; and potato gnocchi with black truffle onion marmalade, vodka crème fraîche, and sage; and slow-cooked short ribs, langoustines, and braised red cabbage with snail-garlic butter. Get the busy, busy picture?
Desserts are far more homey, like his lovable peach donut with apple strüdel and white pepper ice cream, and his banana tempura (left) with boysenberries, banana walnut ice cream and butterscotch sauce.

Pay no attention to the superfluous velvet ropes in the photo to the left. Ixta is not the kind of place where you need to dress like Paris Hilton to secure a table or act like someone other than who you are. In fact, Ixta is one of the chummiest, most amiable new spots in town, and you won't have to line up to get in.
Not that Ixta doesn't deserve a line out the door, for it is a valuable addition to Mexican restaurants in New York, and chef Linda Japngie, whose work I found very impressive at Jimmy's Downtown as an exemplar of Nueva Latino cuisine, has now spread her wings and personalized everything, cutting out the unnecessary and adding color and flair to everything on the menu, from appetizers like her sparkling spicy crab soup with lime and cilantro to her crab with garlic sauce and corn-lime salad. By all means order a tamale stuffed with roasted shrimp and corn with a warm tomato relish, as well as taquitos of lobster and black beans with queso fresco and cabrales cheeses. For main courses I am very much a fan of her careful cooking of wild striped bass with zucchini fritas and Veracruz salsa, the charred baby lamb encrusted with coriander and served with a jalapeño cream and ancho glaze, and, especially, roast duck pepian with black bean tamale and crispy asparagus--all perfect main dishes to go with addictive side dishes like smoky paprika fries, cayenne onion crisps, and "hand-hacked" guacamole.
Desserts are fabulous, the best being warm Mexican chocolate cake with blood orange sorbet and Kahlua sauce, and cajeta sundae with cinnamon ice cream, bananas, and honey-roasted peanuts, by pastry chef Richard Guier. gbgbr

The service personnel here makes Ixta very easy to love, and you'll probably become a regular if you live anywhere in the area. The interior (right) is a riot of Mexican colors in the banquette and bar chairs, and outside there's a cool patio for warm weather, complete with a couple of palm trees, where you can tipple dozens of tequilas and mezcals and pretend you're seeing stars.
This is not Mexican food for those seeking a round of margaritas and the roar of the Gypsy Kings on the sound system--although you'll get both here. It's a place where modern Mexican food is to be found with an ingenuous style that is all Japngie's, and Ixta is a little jewel of a place and lots of fun. Something tells me Ixta could be easily replicated elsewhere, but I hope not. I want to keep it for 10,000 regulars and me.

PUT THE VERB AT THE END OF EACH SENTENCE AND IT BEGINS TO MAKE SENSE
Translation of website of Restaurant VAU in Berlin

"The VAU in the hunter route at the gendarme market was that place, at which the socio-politically engaged Jewess Rahel Varnhagen invited the mental elite before 200 years to discussions and discussions. The today's capital offers sufficient topics, in order to continue this tradition at same place. Restaurant chief Petra clover mountain stands for this kind of hospitality, for the "meal with friends as with friends". The continuous high level since the days of the opening is the achievement of kitchen boss Kolja clover mountain, whose working as well as its team was already recompenced in the first year with a Michelin star. Freshness, seasonal products - if possible from the citizen of Berlin surrounding countryside - and the consistently converted philosophy of the gastronomischen Mentors Josef Viehhauser not to bring any more than three products on the plate are the success prescription of the kitchen. The restaurant VAU is a large throw of the master architect my hard of Gerkan (among other things Lehrter station), the Design comes from Peter Schmidt (among other things BOSS, David off), and the works of art of the often distinguished Cologne painter olive."

OK, BUT JUST THINK WHAT HE SAVED THE PLACE IN BREAD AND MASHED POTATOES

When Sui Amaama and his wife Isabella Leota asked for a 12th slice of roast beef on the $8.99 buffet menu hjmh

at Chuck-a-Rama in Taylorsville, Utah, the manager asked them to leave. Mr. Amaama contended he was on the Atkins Diet and refused, so police were called to remove him.

DEPARTMENT OF CORRECTIONS
The name of the Mexico City restaurant at 10 Andrés Bello, mentioned in last week's newsletter, is El Bistro.

* From October 17-29 John Mariani, publisher and editor of this newsletter, will be a host aboard the Crystal Serenity cruise ship, from Athens to Barcelona, with stops in Dubrovnik, Zadar, Venice, Taormina, Monte Carlo, and Barcelona. On Oct. 19 he will welcome guests for a cocktail reception and 6-course tasting menu with wines in the Private Vintage Room. On Oct. 26 he will host a dinner at La Chevre d'Or (two Michelin stars) in Monte Carlo with a 6-course meal with fabulous wines. Other activities to be announced. For info call FESTIVALS AFLOAT at 1-800-297-8505.

* During July and August, Chez Henri in Cambridge, MASS, will present its Fifth Annual Latin Dinner Series. Chef-Owner Paul O’Connell wants to serve these recipes in a climate similar to their point of origin at 3-course, $39 prix fixe menus . July 12-24:Venezuela and Colombia; July 26 thru August 7 Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico; Aug. 16 thru 28 Cuba and Argentina. Call 617-354-8980.

* On July 14 La Panetiere in Rye, NY, will hold a Bastille Day 6-course dinner at $75 pp. Call 914-967-8140.

* From July 16-18 The Mark Hotel in NYC, hosts a "Wine Weekend" priced at $575 pp: Deluxe guest room accommodations; Breakfast each morning; a Champagne reception and dramatic sabering demonstration on Fri. evening; Admission to a variety of seminars with our own in-house master sommelier, Richard Dean and several guest speakers;-A trip to the Union Square Green Market with Mark's executive chef, Andrew Chase on Sat.; A visit to Morrell Wine Company at Rockefeller Center , which entitles guests to a 10% discount; A 5-course gala dinner in Mark's restaurant on Sat. evening.; A brunch and celebratory Champagne toast on Sun. Call 212-606-4501

* On July 19 Chicago's BIN 36 will bring all things Australian to life with a month-long food and wine celebration with small plates and wine flights developed by Executive Chef John Caputo and Wine Director Brian Duncan. Additionally, guests will have an opportunity to win an all-expense paid trip for two to the State of South Australia, courtesy of the South Australian Tourism Commission and Qantas Airways. BIN School will also join in the Aussie spirit by hosting an "Introduction to Australian Wines" on July 12 at $36 pp, and "Exclusive and Elusive Australian Fine Wines" on July 29, at $72 pp. Call (312) 755-9463.

* On July 20 San Francisco's Rubicon and Martine's Wines will hold a wine dinner featuring two winemakers from Burgundy, Charles Audoin and Christophe Perrot-Minot., with a menu by new chef of Rubicon, Stuart Brioza, matched to the wines of the vintage of 2002 from Perrot-Minot and the wines of Audoin from the vintage of 2001. $180 pp. Call 415-434-4100.

* Chicago's The Peninsula Hotel is now offering a "Gentlemen's Retreat Tea" offers savory appetizers (barbecued lamb chops, smoked salmon club sandwiches, mini beef burgers with blue cheese, and more), a glass of The Peninsula Hotel's privately blended bourbon, coffee or tea, and a cigar. Guests can relax by the fire with a clubby feel to the Bar. The cost is $36 per person.

* The Consorzio of Grana Padano and Mionetto Wines are launching an "Aperitivo Italiano" promotion from July 20-Sept. 20, to take place at several Italian restaurants in NYC that will feature 2 glasses of Mionetto Prosecco and anaccompanying plate of Grana Padano Cheese, including restaurants Bricco, Amarone, Baraonda, Bella Blue, Grano Trattoria, Luca, Mad28 and Osteria Stella, offered at no charge one day a week during the event. For the remaining days, the "Aperitivo Italiano" will be offered at a very affordable fixed price of $5 pp.

* On July 23 the Saddle Peak Lodge in Calabasas, CA, will hold a wine dinner with chef Warren Schwartz preparing a 6-course dinner with wines from Rosenthal and Semler estates. $125 pp. Call 818-222-3888; www.saddlepeaklodge.com

EDITOR'S NOTE: This newsletter is also available on the GAYOT food & travel; website ( www.gayot.com ) and on the food site www.sautewednesday.com which has dozens of other links to food articles from around the world. New York Corner reviews are also available at www.nycvisit.com/johnmariani

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Editor/Publisher: John Mariani. Contributing Writers: Robert Mariani, Naomi Kooker, Kirsten Skogerson, Edward Brivio, Mort Hochstein, Lucy Gordan. Contributing Photographers: Galina Stepanoff-Dargery, Bobby Pirillo. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

John Mariani is a columnist for Esquire, Wine Spectator, Diversion and the Harper Collection. He is author of The Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink (Lebhar-Friedman), The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink (Broadway), and, with his wife Galina, the award-winning new Italian-American Cookbook (Harvard Common Press). To purchase from amazon.com, click on the image below.