Tips from the EBML, EBE, Friends and personal Experience.
    Here's another great tips page:  http://basdaz.homestead.com/files/broncoInfo.htm

Modifications that I've done, or " The ongoing story of a man and his toy".

EFI 351W Engine Install
Remote Mount TFI Module itno FRPP Harness
High Pinion D44 into an EB.
Rear Lincoln Disk Brakes.
New Master Cylinder
Intermittent Wiper Switch
Cherokee Wiper Arms
RCI Bucket Seats
3 Point Harness
Cross Enterprises Rear Shock Mount
Floor Mounted Ebrake Handle
On-board Air
Fast Air Up/Down Hose
F250 Shock Mounts
Colt Vista Rear Seat
Saginaw Power Steering Pump
Extended Radius Arms
Tilt Steering Column
 Cut Rocker Panel and Protection
 

EFI Engine Install

    Since so many have asked, here's the story of the install.
**DISCLAIMER** I believe this information to be correct, I'm not perfect and have a bad habit of confusing facts while writing.  If anything fails the logic test, check it through another source.

    I started with a 5.8 from a 4x4 '94 F250, with an auto, had about 42k, good compression and oil pressure. This is the first year for the roller cam 351Ws, and this is one.  I called FRPP and spoke at length to the Tech folks about it, it seems the Lightning trucks are roller blocks, but not roller cams.  So I have the roller cam and speed density EFI setup. I would have preferred a mass air setup, may make that conversion in the next year. Mass air on the 5.8 is only sporadically available on CA trucks in '95, and on '96 trucks. It's also available on some cars, these motors are REALLY expensive and difficult to find. Unfortunately, the '96 is EEC V and OBD II (on board diagnostics), which is a much more controlled engine and not as easily compatible with the older EEC IV stuff (read: Mustang). Why don't more people do the 5.8? Because there are about six times as many 5.0s available, they're cheaper, fit better and they don't stick up through the hood the way the truck intake does. Longer runners equals better torque down lower in the RPM range.

    I got the entire engine and all the wiring harness from the front half of the truck (except for one small critical piece, more later). I got all the accessories and serpentine belt setup. An electric fuel pump (external) from a '86 Bronco and all fuel lines were included (more later). Radiator, fan, vacuum res., purge canister, all vacuum lines, power distribution block, all sensors, etc.....

    The install. I pulled the old engine out and began the swap. Worked on getting all the wiring to the EEC done before starting. I cut all the wires about 18 inches from where they exit the engine management harness and again at the same distance from the EEC. All wires in the circuit were identified and labeled as I proceeded. Once all was identified, it was soldered to it's counterpart. I used heat shrink tubing on all the connections. Had a couple of friends help with the actual install, it was needed. This engine is BIG in that little bay. Had to completely remove the throttle linkage, the valve covers wouldn't clear. NOTE: install the engine without the motor mounts attached. Got everything lined up and bolted to the bell housing. Had to grind, drill and tap for the forward clutch linkage bolt. Also had to cut down the clutch actuating lever. This was too long with the long tube headers. Cut off about 3/4 inch and relocated it.

    Wiring: I ran the alternator about as Todd Z. described in his write up. Worked fine. For all the electrical connections that require voltage in to the EEC I used two six unit fuse blocks. One controls all that should be "hot at all times" (HOA) and one for "hot in run or start" (HOR/S). HOA is run to the battery side of the solenoid, HOR/S is run to the ignition switch. NOTE: make sure that you run this to a wire that is hot in BOTH run and start, I spent hours trying to fix this till Steve G. clued me in. I used wiring diagrams from the Chiltons manual and from the Mitchell manual. The Mitchell was much more accurate. I wanted the diagram from ford but both of the dealers near me were missing the info for this year. Got the manuals from the library.

    The only major problem I had was with the HEGO sensor. This is actually on the transmission control harness and not on the engine harness.  This caused me big trouble because I had two male connectors for the sensor, but not the female harness that should have been in between. I finally did a net search and got a good idea of how it should be wired.  What idiot at ford decided that a four wire connector should have BLK, ORG, PPL and GRY/LT BLU on one side and WHT, WHT, BLK and GRY on the other??? Care to guess which wire goes where? Probst to the rescue.

    Fuel delivery. The external pumps are supposed to be much better. I used the one given me with a small pusher at the tank (I'm only running the 23 gallon tank in the rear and no front tank), I could probably not use it but it helps since I don't use a fuel reservoir inline. I'm using the stock '94 fuel filter in pretty much the stock location. The primary pump is located on the lower portion of the body, above the frame, directly below my seat. I wanted it protected. The main line runs from the tank sender outlet, to the pusher, to the filter, to the pump, to the fuel rail. Return is from the fuel rail to the tank at one of the EVAP connectors. Fuel lines are 3/8 (in) and 5/16 (return). I also ran the line from the other EVAP to the CANP reservoir. The big problem here was that the fuel lines from the truck I got the engine from were removed the day before I got it. The lines I got didn't have the correct connectors at the fuel rails. I ended up cutting the fittings off the end of the fuel rails and using double hose clamps. Works fine.

    Cooling. Had a custom radiator built with the correct inlet and outlet. Went for the 4 core while I was there. I have the stock F250 upper hose on the top, with about 4 inches cut out of the middle, and a 12 inch Cool-flex hose on the bottom. I've looked for a different stock hose for the top, so far no luck.

    Overall. This is great throttle response is great, lots of available power. Still need to do a couple of things to make it totally great.  Needs a tune-up. Set idle speed, etc... and fix the hood. I'm running a 1 inch body lift and this sticks up about 5 inches above the hood line.  I ended up buying: 18" reverse rotation fan, small electric pusher pump, lots of electrical tape, K&N Filtercharger kit, high efficiency 4 core radiator with swapped inlet and outlet, lots of wiring stuff, custom PS pressure hose, anti-fouler for 18mm spark plugs (used as O2 sensor bung in exhaust), more.
Still to do: Hood, make the wiring look good, get the EEC into it's safe place, get a good exhaust system.

UPDATE 1:
    Tune-up is done.  New plugs, cap, rotor, wires, etc.... Runs much better.  Installed a Jacobs on it as well.  I changed the timing to 13 Degrees BTDC (since I live at about 6000 ft elevation).  For the exhaust I had the local shop put on a dual into single system.  They used aluminized 2.5 inch pipe, into a 'Y', into the single Turbo muffler. The HEGO is mounted at the juncture of the 'Y', this allows it to sample the complete exhaust stream.  The muffler is mounted with the oval potion vertical, inlet to the down side, outlet to the up side.  The exit runs over the frame and exits in front of the rear wheel, on the passenger side.  Set up like this allows me to remove the entire exhaust system and access the transfer and transmission, without having to cut anything (I've seen some of the setups that require cutting and rewelding to remove, not for me!).  It's so quiet now I can actually hear my wife talking to me at 65 MPH (is that a good thing?).  I never realized the tires were so noisy !!

UPDATE 2:
    Well, some time has gone by and I've gotten the itch to change things.  Swapped in a GT-40 upper and lower, and a 65mm Throttle body from an Explorer.  Changed to a single conical style K&N at the same time.  I ended up having to put the air filter on the drivers side, so the upper would clear the fuel regulator.  Works really well, but the GT-40 intake moved the torque curve up to about 1600 RPM.  It really comes on strong at that range.  With the truck stuff, it was lower and less noticeable when it came on.  I'm looking at installing a phenoilc spacer, that'll lengthen the intake runners and move the torque curve back down a bit lower.  I had to fab up a bracket to hold the throttle cable (NOTE: attach the cable bracket to the engine, it'll do really weird stuff when the engine and body flex if attached to a body part, hee hee).  Added a High Country 4x4 fiberglass hood.  Brought back the sleeper look.

UPDATE 3:
    OK, so I've gotten the mass air conversion done.  AWESOME!!  Made a huge difference in the power and smoothness of the engine.  I maintained the GT-40 upper and lower, replaced the Explorer TB with a 65mm BBK unit, added a 1/2" phenolic spacer and completely rewired the engine.  I used a new SEFI wiring harness.  I checked around on the net and the best prices I could find were at Southwest Ford.  I paid $425 for all the new wiring.  Here are the part numbers:

M-12071-C302 is the main harness.
M-12071-E302 is the engine/injector harness.
M-12071-K302 is the sensor kit.

  In addition to these parts, I got a couple of connectors from the junkyard to prevent having to cut the harness.  I did cut the wiring harness at the TFI module, because I wanted to continue to run the remote style TFI.  Here's how I wired it in:

FRPP Harness:
1. OR/RD  from EEC #16 (IGN GND) to #7 on Dizzy.
2. GY/OR  from EEC #56 (PIP) to #1 on TFI and #8 on Dizzy.
3. Pink       from EEC #16 (SPOUT) to #2 on TFI.
4. RD/BL  from crank only power source (not used)
5. TN/YL  from EEC #4 (IDM and -coil) to #3 on RTFI.
     (must be cut to isolate –coil and IDM)
6. RD/GN from +coil and VPWR to #1 on Dizzy and #4 on RTFI.

'94 Dizzy:
1.    to VPWR and +coil.
2.    shield wire.
3.    to TFI #6.
7.    from EEC #16 (IGN GND).
8.    from EEC #56 (PIP) and to #1 on RTFI.

'94 Remote TFI
1.   from EEC #56 (PIP) and to #8 on Dizzy.
2.   from EEC #36 (SPOUT).
3.   from EEC #4 (IDM).
4.   from VPWR.
5.   to –coil.
6.   from Dizzy #3.

One all the wiring was in, I ran the main connector through the firewall and mounted the EEC behind the glovebox.  I'm running the A9L EEC, but also have an A9P that I'll be swapping to see which I prefer.  I'll keep you posted.
 

  High Pinion D44 into an EB.
    I started with a disk brake D44 from a '77 F150.  The good things for my particular case were:  4.09 axle ratio (instead of 3.50), disk brakes (instead of drums), increased ground clearance and beefier axleshafts and u-joints.  I got the complete axle from a local junkyard.  I've been told that the correct way to do this was to cut the axle tube, press the knuckle off the old tube end, press the knuckle back on the new end and TIG it back together.  I took it to Charlie Manthei, at Peak Performance and Fabrication, right here in the 'Springs.  He did the work on site, took me about 4 days to get it back.  I sent the axleshaft off to Moser Engineering to be cut down and resplined to the same pattern.  Both were cut down exactly 6 inches, all from the passenger side.    The 'C' brackets were moved over to the correct position and MIG welded back on.  I also had an adjustable track bar made, to correctly locate the axle (I added a 3.5 inch lift at the same time as I installed the axle).  I used the tie rod inserts from BCBroncos, since the tie rod ends are larger on the F150.  I may redo/rethink this in the next few months, but I had all new tie rods on the truck.  One point to consider here.  The high pinion is just exactly that, HIGH.  I do have clearance issues with the current lift, axle and oilpan.  I'll be swapping in the BCBroncos 4.5 inch coils to move the axle and oilpan a bit farther apart.  Of course, I could use longer bump stops, but why.....  Overall I'm very happy with the combination.

Parts list and costs:
Complete axle                            $250
Cut axle down                            $125
Cut axleshaft down                     $070
Rebuilt calipers and pads            $050
BCBroncos tie rod sleeves         $035
Total                                          $530

UPDATE 1:
    I added the BCBroncos 4.5" front springs, and no more clearance issues.  These springs are tall!!

  Rear Lincoln Disk Brakes.
    I started with a stock '77 Lincoln Mark V  rear end, this is the 3300lbs axle.  I also had this cut down by Charlie Manthei.  While there we added some custom parts.  He took about 2 inches out of each side of the axle tubes.  I'm using HD 31 spline axleshafts for the rear, with bearing surfaces and brake register designed for the '77 EB.  The ends were welded back on and I began to research all the finer points of what would work on the brakes.  I'm using sealed bearings on the axleshaft, with oil seals on the inside.  I went with the sealed bearings since I do cross water on my wheeling trips, and I think they handle side loads better.  I used the GM style spring perches, they're about 3/16" thich and look much beefier than what was stock on the EB.  They also added about 3/4" inches of lift.  I ended up using stock '97 Explorer rear disk brake rotors, with the stock Lincoln calipers.  The Explorer rotors had to be machined out to match the brake register of the axleshaft, redrilled to the correct 5 on 5.5" wheel pattern, and a small bit of maching done to the inside of the rotor hat, out near the edge, to clear some extra casting material.  These fit over the outside of the axleshaft flanges.  I didn't want to have to machine the axle flanges, I figured it's much more likely that I'll break an axleshaft than a rotor.  We welded tabs along the bottom of the axle tubes, to secure the ebrake cables.  Charlie recommended that I put the truck on jackstands and let it run for 5 minutes with no load on the bearings, before driving down the road.  I'd never heard of this, but did it anyway.  Once all the parts were back together, I checked for clearance around the calipers.  I was having some interference with the brake pads hitting the outside of the rotor hat.  I fixed this by adding a 1/4" washer between the caliper mount and the caliper.  Unfortunately, this moved the caliper out enough that not all of the pad pushes on the rotor.  I'm probably going to have to redo some of this.  I could probably have used the stock EB or Lincoln ebrake cables, but they didn't fit my new Ebrake plan (see below).  I'll be revisiting this soon, stay tuned for further developements.

Parts list and costs:
Complete axle                            $100
Cut down/build axle  *                $325
Wheel bearings   *
Spring perches    *
Rotors                                        $064
Machining rotors                         $076
Total                                          $565
 

  New Master Cylinder
    I've had several recommendations for exactly which Master cylinder to use with the 4 wheel disk brake setup.  I'm currently using the stock EB master, haven't even removed the residual pressure valves.  Most drum brake systems use a 10 PSI residual pressure valve.  This keeps the wheel cylinders from completely collapsing when hydraulic pressure is released.  Most disk brake setups use a 2 PSI residual pressure valve, mostly to keep pressure from bleeding back through the master cylinder if the vehicle is parked with the master below the level of the calipers.  I have the master cylinder from the Lincoln, which I want to use.  My first COA is to remove the residual pressure valves and see how it stops.  Second is to incorporate the Lincoln master into the picture.  Third would be to use sometghing else, not yet identified.  Stay tuned for further developments.

UPDATE 1:
    I did change the master cylinder.  I talked to my local parts store and decided on a  ???.  I don't remember the application, but any decent parts store can do a cross check.

  Cherokee Ebrake Handle
    I never liked the stock position of the ebrake on the EB, especially since the addition of the full cage.  While looking around the salvage yard, one of my favorite weekend activities, I looked at the setup on the little cherokees.  The handle looked like it would fit OK, just had to figure out how to make it all work.  I got it, brought it home, and proceeded to match up parts.  I cut a small, about 1"x2.5", hole in the floor to postion the handle.  There's a top and bottom portion of the handle mechanism, one on the top and bottom sides of the floor.  The handle sits just to the right, next to my seat.  The actuating rod on the cherokee has metric threads on it and I had to extend it a bit to match up with my cables and cable bracket.  With the disk brake rear I had to move some of the parts around.  I welded a piece of 2"x2" angle iron, about 10" long, to the frame, facing inboard toward the driveshaft. Back to the junk yard to find some ebrake cables to fit.  I found some nearly new cables on an Aerostar van.  These cables appear to have some type of coating on the wires that helps them slide in the covers more easily.  The cables go from the calipers to the frame bracket and are held in place.  I had to change the cables a little, by cutting off about 1/8" from the little flared flanges, where they pass through the brackets.  I extended the actuating rod with a bolt and a coupler nut, so it was long enough to reach back to the cables and pull them secure.  I'll probably redo this step with a single section of all thread, or something similar.  I added a spring to provide tension on the passenger side ebrake cable, and keep it up out of the way.  So far it seems to work pretty well, I just need to tighten it up some to hold the EB on hills.

  Intermittent Wiper Switch
    I've been told that the '70s XLT version F series trucks had these, and that it is a direct swap piece.  The connectors are exactly the same, the difference is that instead of the switch plugging directly into the wiper wiring harness, the switch plugs into a connector that has a pigtail connection to the delay box and another connection for the wiper harness.  You can tell these switches by checking the counter-clockwise rotation of the shaft.  If the switch will rotate counter-clockwise, from the OFF position, it's an intermittant switch.  I've also found these on the later model trucks, but you have to swap one wire to make them work as well.  You want to remove the black colored wire and move it over one position, to the blank spot on the connector.  If you remove about 1/4" from the shaft it'll look just like the other switches on your dash.  Find a good ground for the single black wire, securely mount the little black box and you're done.

  Cherokee Wiper Arms
    This basically uses the rear wiper arm from the little Cherokees.  There are several writeups on this conversion.  Here's one:

My main contribution is to say that you can probably get them cheaper new than from a junkyard.  One local yard had them and wanted $25 apiece.  I paid $14 each from Checker for new ones.  They had to special order them, but it only took a couple of days.  These also allow you to use 14" wiper blades.  Makes for a better selection.

  Summit/RCI Racing Bucket Seats
    I like being held securely while the EB is bouncing around the rocks.  I got these seats from Summit Racing, and got the sliding brackets with them. They're mounted right to the floor of the EB.  On the front I used some old steering stabilizer cups to give the seat a slight rearward tilt.  On the under side I used some 2" plate to bolt through, which runs from side to side through both bolts.  This should keep the bolts from pulling through the floor if any excessive force should be applied to the truck (read: if I roll) (and I did roll it, an endo and side roll, no problems!!).  One important point on installation, make sure you center the seat so the accelerator pedal is comfortable to reach.  On mine, this ended up being about 3/4" inboard of the steering wheel center.

  3 Point Harness
    Some folks like different setups for their rigs.  I like having the ability to get securely buckled into mine.  I've looked at several of the different racing harnesses out there.  I finally picked the Autocross belts from OMP, which I got through Driving Impressions.  These belts are available as either a 3 or 4 point system.  I got the 3 point, 'Y' style.  They fit through my seat and bolt securly to the floor.  The best feature of these belts is the buckle.  Most harnesses use an aircraft type latch to hold all of the multiple pieces together.  These are constructed with a normal type seat belt buckle in the middle.  One simple little button to push to get out of it.  I can also not use the shoulder harness portuion, just let it lay around the seat.  They worked very well keeping me in the seat during the roll.  I walked away fine!

  Cross Enterprises Rear Shock Mount
    Axle wrap has been a big problem on my rig, between the gears, the tires, my right foot and the piss poor stock shock mounting position, the movement wore grooves in my axle tubes.  After looking at several different setups, this is the one I decided to go with.  For the price it's much better than trying to fab up something else.  The advantages as I see them are: moving the shocks to the front of the axle tubes to control spring wrap with the compression damping, the ability to change the angle of the shocks and having the shocks more nearly verticle.  Body roll feels much less with the shocks on the outer setting than it was in the stock location.

  On-board Air
    I added on-board air to the EB to allow several things.  First, I wanted to be able to air back up at the end of the trail (without having to pay for it!) and second to allow the use of air tools on the trail.  I'm using the serpentine belt on my engine, and wanted to stay with it.  I used the rotary style pump for some time, but only long enough to burn two of them up.  I'm now using the York AC compressor.  I used the serpentine belt pulley from a rotary style pump and had the inside diameter of the pulley turned down about .005", and the outside of the electromagnet on the York about the same.  I'm using a 2 gallon air tank for air storage, with a 6 ft air hose with a quick disconnect as the output.  I'm using the York bracket from a late 70s 302 to mate up to the engine.  I did have to shim the bracket out enough to match up with the serpentine belt system on my engine.  I tried using a stock York bracket for a 351, but the bolt pattern at the engine is different between the newer and older blocks.  Install a one way check valve inline between the compressor and the air tank, put the tank someplace safe and you're set.

Here's another good write up for it:   http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/yorkair.html

UPDATE 1:
    After running the home made pulley for a while, it just wouldn't cut it any more.  I broke down a paid $100 for a new clutch and pulley from:  Kilby Enterprises     It works great, the pump goes to 140 PSI with absolutely no problems.  My air tank came with a 165 PSI pop off valve, so I'm not even pushing it.  I've used this pump at idle to air a PAIR of Swamper 38x14.50 SXs from 7 to 27 PSI and it only takes about 4 minutes.

  Fast Air Up/Down Hose
    I've seen these hoses advertised for an incredible amount of money.  Once I saw one in person, I knew I could do it for much cheaper.  I got most of the parts from the local Ace Hardware store.  I set it up to only inflate one set of tires at a time, this is because I run significantly different pressures in the front (28) and rear (35, spool).  It can be setup to do all 4 tires for only a little more.  I ran the lines from the tire chucks to the 'T' fitting, from the 'T' fitting to the tire guage.  Where I needed to I used the clamp on male 1/4" NPT fittings.  I also used a male Quick disconnect at the in/out side of the inflator.  This allows me to hook it to my on-board air setup with a minimum of fuss.
Here's a drawing of it:

Parts List:
50 ft, 200 PSI air hose                                 $20
1/4" NPT 'T                                                 $04
Clamp on male 1/4" NPT fittings, 4x             $10
Hose clamps, 4x                                          $02
Clamp on tire chucks, 2x                              $20
Tire pressure guage with Inflator                   $16
Total                                                            $72

F250 Shock Mounts
    I can't remember who was looking for the ford front upper shock mounts but here is the ford part number and price. E5TZ 18183 A  $11.00 I didn't ford made anything useful that was so cheap!! The real funny part is that if you ask for the same mount for a 1994 or newer F250 the price goes up to $43.00 the only difference is the newer mount has two more holes in it. But if it were me and you can get the mounts new for $11.00 that's the route I would go. Steve George P.S don't just order by the above part number please double check it and let me know what your local Ford dealer is asking for the mount.

    I did this one.  This modification will allow you to use a much longer shock, and one with matching top and bottom mounts.  I'm running Rancho 9012s on mine, with BCBroncos 4.5 inch lift.  I ran 9010s with 3.5 inches of lift, but it sat a little more than halfway extended at rest.  Cut and grind the old shock mount off the frame.  Set the new mount up in the same location.  I aligned mine so that the mount would not bind against the shock under compression or droop.  The mount already has a hole in it, I makrked this spot on the frame and drilled through.  On the drivers side, I hit a nut that was welded inside the back side of the frame.  This really slowed down the process.  Watch where you've got it lined up.  Once that was done, I rechecked the alignment and welded the mount onto the frame.  I welded along the bottom and rearward side.  I figured that would be enough to keep it from moving around.  The bolt will keep it on the truck, the welds will keep it aligned.

  Colt Vista Rear Seat
    This has been a great addition to the back of the Bronco.  I've got children, that I like to take out wheeling with me, and wanted a simple seat for the back.  The beauty of this seat is it's versatility.  It can be down for people in the back, or folded up to allow more carrying space in the back.  It also has a multi-position recline.  The seat you're looking for is the 3rd row seat from a Colt Vista wagon.  I'm not sure of the years, but all the ones I've seen had it.  The seats are mostly cloth, so you want to protect it with Scotchguard or keep it out of the rain.  I got the seat, seat belts, latching hardware and bolts from the local u-pullit yard.  I mounted the release brackets (at the rear of the seat) in the same place as the stock rear seat bolts.  I had to drill two holes through the body, outboard of the stock holes, and mounted the brackets there. The front of the seat has angled brackets.  I used some 4 inch square tubing, cut into 2 inch widths, to secure the front end.  I bolted through the tubing, then through the floor.  This raised the front of the seat up about 3.5 inches above the bed.  The seat tilts forward and latches when up.

  Saginaw Power Steering Pump
    The stock F250 PS pump just wasn't putting out enough pressure to turn the wheels in 4WD, while wheeling.  After reading several references, I decided to use the Saginaw "canned ham" style pump.  These were available, in certain years, in some of the Ford vans and larger cars.  I figured that if this is the one used on the big boats, it ought to have the power I'm looking for.  The brackets are supposed to be available on the 351 equiped vans, from late 70s to late 80s.  I got one off a 3/4 or one ton van out of the salvage yard.  Then I had to make it work with my serpentine belt.  I got a serpentine belt pulley from a late model PS pump, but it wouldn't match up with the pump shaft on the saginaw pump (Saginaw shaft was too large).  Off to the machine shop to have the inner diameter of the pulley lathed out.  Once done it went on fine.  I had to modify the bracket a bit, had to cut off the back support for the pump and drill a new hole for the lower left front mounting bolt.  I moved this over about 1/2 inch to allow me to remove the dipstick from the pump.  This sits really close to the York pump.  I used some old shock mount sleeves to keep the spacing right, and keep the bracketry rigid.  Once it was all lined up I just had to find the right sized belt.  This was the hardest part of the whole process, I had to drive all over town to get the right length.  Overall, I'm very impressed with the power of this pump, one finger steering on 35 inch tires.

  Extended Radius Arms
    I'm running the All 4 Fun extended radius arms on the EB to try and free up the movement of the front end, so it maore closely matches the rear.  I got a good deal on the arms, 'cause someone else returned them.  I don't consider myself a good enough welder to do structural things, so I had Damian at DandC Extreme weld the mounts on for me.  The mounts that come with the kit were not very user friendly and the instructions call for "cutting the existing radius arm mounting brackets off the frame and welding to the provided brackets, which are then welded to the frame".  Qvatsch!!  Anyway, we mounted their brackets sideways to the frame and added an additional 1/2" of material to the front to properly space the arms.

    The arms really freed up the front end bind and the front flexes much better now.  It doesn't move as well as the rear, I'll have to work on that.

  Tilt Steering Column
    I got a tilt column from a '79 E150 Club Wagon.  This has the tilt unit, which is actuated by the turn signal lever, integrated flasher unit and no ignition switch in the column.  The later model F series and vans have the ignition switch in the column.  The install was fairly straightforward.  I pulled the old column out of the EB, drilled through the spot welds that hold the mount to the tube and removed the mount from the van cloumn. I partly installed the van column to check the mounting bracket height.  I set the height and then spot welded the bracket onto the column.  One more check to make sure the column was at the right height, then finish welding it all together.  The van column has a rag joint at the bottom, which matches up refectly with the stock power steering lower shaft.

    Then came the wiring.  The wiring is fairly straightforward, but it took a while to figure it out.  Here's a chart that explains what the wires do:
 

Wired up this way, the only flasher unit required is the turn signal one, since that's all the circuit needs.  I left the dash mount emergency unit in, but don't need it.
 

Cut Rocker Panel and Protection
    I just did some of my own on the new body for my trail rig.  I've been thinking about it for some time and polled all the guys I talked to at various events on the merits of 2x4 vs. 2x6 construction.  All the 2x4 guys wanted it a little wider, the 2x6 guys liked it as it was.  So I did 2"x6"x1/8" construction.  The 2x6 seems to do a better job of protecting the lower edges of doors or inserts.

Basically, I cut the rockers off and welded the new metal in.  The front edge was cut to 1" depth, then doubled back on itself to provide a better welding/sealing platform.  The back side was cut off about 3", welded in and the remainder cut off flush.  I stich welded it on both top and bottom, about 3-4 across the top and 6-7 on bottom.  Figured it would be a lot easier to replace only having to cut through the stiches.

This was fairly easy to do since I had the body off anyway, I just rolled it up on it's side, cut, cut and welded.  I still have to trim the front edge, but I left it a little longer to make sure there was plenty of extra to mount the fender to.

You can see some pics here on the build up page.  I just did it this weekend, so the memory is still fresh.
 

Joe