Favorite Links

Listed by Alpha Numeric

Just cut and past the URL into the address section & enter

4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers ----- http://www.4wheelparts.com
40 Truck Accessory Companies ----- http:// www.customtruckshowcase.com/pages/manufac.html
75 Off Road Links ----- http:// http://www.rock-island.org/offroad/links
Advanced Turbo Systems ----- http://www.atsturbo.com
All Trucks Only Accessories ----- http:// www.alltruckaccessories.com
Amsoil ------ http://www.amsoil.com
Auto Krafter - FORD Parts & Accessories ----- http://www.autokrafters.com
Autometer Gauges ----- http://www.autometer.com
Autometer Gauges Mounts ----- http://www.dieselpage.com/apillar.htm
Auto Tap Scan Tool ----- http://www.autotap.com
Axle Ratio/Tire Size Calulator ----- http://www.4lo.com/4LoCalc.htm
Banks Diesel Performance ----- http://www.getpower.com
BD Engineering ----- http://www.bd-vfi.com/
Best Automotive Care Parts and Lubricants ----- http://www.car-stuff.com/carlinks/add.htm
Blackstone Labratories ----- http://www.blackstone-labs.com/truck.html
Brush Guard Truck Accessories ----- http://www.brushguards.com/
Bull Dog Technology ----- http://www.bullydog.com/
California Hitch Company ----- http://www.calhitchinc.com/class3index.html
Champion Products & Labs ----- http://www.champlabs.com/automotive.html
Chrome Exhaust Tips ----- http://www.drivetrain.com/chrometip.html
Concept Tech - Idle Controlers ------ http://www.concepttechnology.com/products/disc.htm
Crutchfield Electronics ----- http:// www.crutchfield.com
Custom Mud Flaps ----- http://www.omnicast.net/nwcustom/mudflaps.html
Datcon Electronics ----- http://www.datcon.com/
Decal & Custom Graphics ----- http://www.edecals.com/ford/index.html
Desert Offroad Truck Accessories ----- http:// www.desertoffroad.com
Dial-A-Clutch (LUK) ----- http://www.dialaclutch.com/
Diesel Dynamics ----- http://www.dieseldynamics.com/
Diesel Pages.com ----- http://www.dieselpage.com/vehtype/pfordps.html
Dieselmans Repair Pages ----- http://intellidog.com/dieselmann/home.html
Engine Oil Labritories ----- http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
Fab Tech - FORD Division ----- http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/ford/ford.html
Fleet Guard Systems ----- http://www.fleetguard.com/
Ford-Diesel.com 94 to 97 Forum http://forums.ford-diesel.com/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB35
Formula Off Road 4X4 Specialties ----- http://www.formulaoffroad.com.au/
Garrett Turbo Systems ----- http://www.egarrett.com/index.jsp
Harrison Scan Tool ----- http://www.ghg.net/dharrison/
Hypertech Inc ----- http://www.hypertech-inc.com/
Hypermax Engineering ------ http://www.hypermaxdiesel.com/
Isspro Gauges ----- http://www.isspro.com
JC Whitney ----- http://www.jcwhitney.com/
Mag-Hytec's Differential Covers & Trans Pans ----- http://www.mag-hytec.com/
Master Hitch Company ----- http://www.masterhitch.com/
Motor Filters Company ----- http://www.motorfilters.gr/products.htm
National Spring - Tire & Wheel ----- http://www.natltire.com/
OBDII Scan Tool ----- http://www.obd-2.com/
Oil Guard Bypass Systems ----- http://www.oilguard.com/
ORU (Offroad Unlimited ) ----- http://www.offroadunlimited.com/
ORW (Off Road Warehouse ) ----- http://www.offroadwarehouse.com
Plattsburgh Springs & Hitches ----- http://www.drawtite.com/
Power Parts ----- http://www.dieselhp.com/home
Premo Lubrications Technologies ----- http://www.premolube.com/
Pro Comp Suspensions ----- http://www.explorerprocomp.com/
Racor/Parker Bypass Systems ----- http://www.parker.com/racor/lfs_bypss.html
Rancho ----- http://www.gorancho.com
Rough Country ----- http://rough.roughcountry.com/
Rockin "S" Performance Products ---- Http://www.Rockin-S-Performance.com
RPM Outlet ----- http://www.rpmoutlet.com/frame.htm
Skyjacker ----- http://www.skyjacker.com
Sonnax Trans Performance Parts ----- http://www.powerglide.com
Southern Truck Parts “Power Plus” ----- http://www.dieselhp.com/home
SPA Gauges (DIS) ----- http://www.dieselpage.com/spa.htm
Summit Racing Electronics ----- http://www.summitracing.com/
Sun Pro Gauges ----- http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=sungauge.htm&cart_id=6580810_13356
Superchips ----- http://www.superchips.com/
Superlift ----- http://www.superlift.com
1-800-The Hitch ----- http://www.trailerhitch.com/
The Power Shop (Drive Train) ----- http://www.thepowershop.com/frameset.htm
Transfer Flow Fuel Tanks & Filler Necks ----- http://www.transferflow.com
TS Chip ----- http:// www.tsperformanceproducts.com/
Tymar Performance "Dale Isley" ----- http://www.tymarperformance.com/ or 1-509-922-8785 or TYMARPerformance@MSN.com
Us Gear Company ----- http://www.usgear.com/
VDO Gauges & Mounts (E-Gauges) ----- http://www.egauges.com/
Western Diesel ----- http://www.westerndiesel.com/turbochip.html
Western Diesel Gauges ----- http://www.westerndiesel.com/turboguage.html
Westach Gauges ----- http://www.westach.com./
West Fleet Direct ----- http://www.westfleet.com/

AC MOD

Axles

Axle Shaft Universal Joint Installation

I recently changed my front axle universal joints on the TTB. They were very badly frozen. I was originally just going to change the Automatic Locking Front Hubs to Manuals. As soon as I started I realized there were more problems than I expected. I expected to inspect and lubricate all of the front bearings and to make sure the axle shafts turned easily. They did not.

I couldn't turn the shafts at all by hand I couldn’t even turn them with a pair of Channel Lock Pliers. I then decided to remove the spindles and assess further the condition of the axle shaft U-Joints. Getting the spindles off was no small task. Each side took almost 30 minutes of heat, penetrating oil, a huge wheel puller and a moderate amount of BFH. The Right side gave me the most grief. After removing the spindles the rest came out very easy. snip off the Oetiker Clip on the Right side shaft and all pulls out of the hole in the Steering knuckle. Before I disassemble the shafts I always mark them so that they go back together the same way. I used a center punch and made two hits for the right side shaft and one hit for the left side shaft. The left side comes free by pulling the shaft out of the Dana 50. As soon as I removed the shafts I could see why the shafts were not turning freely. The shafts came out frozen in the position they were last in. The Universal Joints had been frozen solid in one phase and had an 1/8" of play in the other phase. In layman's terms these babies were toast. Removing those U-Joints was next.

I removed the U-Joints with very little problem. The hardest part of this operation was getting the old external clips out of the yoke. Once again heat and penetrating oil did the trick. (You may want to mark your shafts before removing the U-Joints.) There are three U-Joints on this application and two them are on the shafts. The last one remains in the truck and is difficult to remove even with the proper U-Joint tool. There is not much room to work the tool in and I believe that raising the right side beam may give you some additional room to get the joint out and affixed in place without excessive interference. This original third joint was actually in good condition, but I chose to replace it with a zerk type U-Joint to avoid a repeat of this job in the future. I always like to clean up the parts that I have removed as best I can and make them look like new. I have a small sandblaster and did a quick cleanup on all the axles shafts and yokes to remove much of the rust and scale. Remember to use duct tape or similar to block any openings where you do not want the sand to go. I do not recommend sandblasting the riding surfaces of the spindle or the threaded end. I taped mine from threaded end to the middle of the seal seat, as sand and bearings do compliment each other. This is also the reason why I did not sandblast the steering knuckles, half shaft yoke left in the Dana 50 and the Brake drum and hub. I then wash the sandblasted parts in Hot soapy water and rinsed them with hot water. I allow the parts to dry in a warm spot and then paint them. This protects them from rust and allows for a very clean assembly.

Assembling the Shafts: When I assemble the Yokes and U- Joints I always will use Anti-Seize to help lubricate the assembly and to prevent the seizure of rusted parts, in case this job ever needs to be done again. I liberally paint the Anti-Seize onto the mating surface on the yoke making sure that the clip groove is liberally covered. I then proceed to install the U-Joints. You can use a vise and some impact sockets to do the job. I wouldn't use regular sockets as they are hardened and may send a chip flying when you apply the pressure. I used a U-Joint tool. It Looks like a big C-Clamp and is available for Under 50 bucks in either Northern Hydraulics or Harbor Freight.

Do Not use Anti-Seize to lubricate anything other than bolt threads and certain press fit applications. Its use is basically to keep metal parts from and corroding together. It is not designed to be a lubricant like grease. The slip joint in the Right side axle shaft requires lubrication, and I used Mobil 1 synthetic grease for this. Be careful with the female side of this slip joint as it has a small seal on the end that can be damaged. Once you slide the slip joint together you will need to replace the clamps on the slip joint boot. I went with the original Oetiker clamps. I had a dog of a time finding them but I believe they are the best way of keeping the boot watertight. I do not recommend the use of the universal type clamps as they do not tighten as well as the Oetikers do.

Spindles: My Spindles had some surface corrosion on the riding surfaces that I removed with a fine steel wool. I cleaned out the roller bearings inside the spindle, inspected them for damage and re-packed them. It takes about 7 pumps of grease from the typical grease gun to provide enough grease to pack these bearings. So don't be stingy. Pack the bearing by pressing your finger into the grooves between the bearings to get the grease all the way down into the bearing. Rotate the bearing as you are performing this packing operation. Prior to installing the shafts I wire brushed the steering knuckle mounting bolts and mating surfaces, I sandblasted the mating surface of the drum brake shield, and then installed the spindle back onto the steering knuckle using Anti-Seize on all of the mating areas and on all of the studs and nuts. . Do not forget to replace the yoke seals (Called Rotating Diaphragm Seal, in the Service Manual) and spread a film of grease on the inner lip of the seal. These seals are little difficult to find and you may have to wait a day or so to get them. I had to cross reference mine as there was no re- using them. Both of them were pretty chopped due to the frozen U-Joints.

I proceeded to examine the bearings and races after a very thorough cleaning of the hub. I was able to see immediately that one bearing was wasted and exposed to high heat. It had very little grease in it and it was discolored to a slightly blue color. The other three I replaced because of scoring on the races and some pitting on the bearings. One of those bearings was completely brown with rust upon removal. After replacing all four races. I brought the Discs to the machine shop for resurfacing. It is very important to lock down at least one of the lug nuts onto the hub to keep the rotor from moving off the hub from the vibrations or pressure of the cutting machine. After getting the rotors and hubs turned I clean out the hub again with Brakeleen and blow out any chips that may have found their way into the hub. I then packed the bearings with Mobil-1 synthetic replaced the Grease seals and then mounted and installed the hubs and discs as the service manual instructed. I also purchased new disc pads. I prefer OEM pads due to my experience with aftermarket pads but unfortunately had to go with Raybestos due to availability problems at my local Ford Dealer and a FUBAR ordering problem.

The best part of this job is the satisfaction of knowing that I have a dependable 4 wheel drive axle now. I love my Warn Premium Manuals and I cannot say enough about what an easy job it is to swap out the autos. It can be done by anyone with very few tools needed. I did not require a retrofit kit for mine and the hubs go in like a dream. It basically comes down to placing the hub in affixing the small snap ring and the outer hub ring, then bolt on the outer cover. It is that easy. I like the classic look of the Warn Premiums and the Gold middle with black lettering gives it a nice look. I think it is worth the extra 20 bucks. Plus no plastic. I also like the 350 degree twist as opposed to the 90 degree twist.

Finding Out Your Gear Ratio With New Tire Sizes

Axle Gear Ratio Conversion Chart

Rear Hub Axle Seal leak

Get the type of seal that spins inside itself, probably made by Chicago Rawhide (Scotseal name). These are the best type of seal made since the rubber part that slides on the spindle is stationary to the axle and the parts that actually spin on each other are enclosed inside the seal itself. When you put in this type of seal you are in effect replacing the seal and the metal surface it rubs on (no need for speedi-sleeves). Leaking seals like this are a common problem on full floaters especially when you use a simple seal and are usually caused by improperly torque on axle nuts, bad bearings or damaged seals on assembly. After you drive the seal in the hub, make sure the seal spins in itself and you are virtually assured it won't leak again. It wouldn't have any effect on your bearings unless your oil got real low and then you'd have more problems than bearings. If they weren't Timken or BCA I'd toss them and get Timkens as you're living on borrowed time anyway. I always pack them with grease as you cannot trust the oil getting to the bearing before it burns up.

Installed Aftermarket Differential Cover

Just installed an Off Road Unlimited Differential cover and I am very pleased with the product. The stock cover would be very hot to the touch after the ride to work (about 30 miles). The new cover with its large aluminum fins dissipates heat much better than stock and allows one additional quart of fluid http://www.offroadunlimited.com/ $109.00

Axle Maintenance

Reason being that the metal particles that are found in the bottom of the differential are from gears, bearings and even the case and cover. The wear parts, gears and bearings, require some break in time before they reach a smooth, minimum friction point. When machined parts are new they are quite porous and rough as seen under a microscope. When the same parts are viewed after break in they appear polished and the porosity is significantly diminished. This includes bearings, gears, races, etc. These small particles are important in the break in process. (This goes for rebuilt or new engines too.) The smaller ones accumulate in suspension and assist in the break in process helping to scour off the rough edges and polishing the gears and bearings. The small particles' job is pretty much complete by 5000 miles. The magnet you are referring to will help accumulate many of the particles especially the larger ones but cannot get all of them. The lube is too thick and the currents are too great to keep the really small ones from falling out of solution. This is why I believe the 30 K service is so important the first time around. If you were to do a 30K and then a 60 K you would still find some particles but there will be significantly less and they will be very small in comparison to the ones you would see in the 30K service. Remember thrown fluid and the particles contained therein are wearing down the case too. While it is not significant it is like erosion rounding rocks at the beach. Some would argue that these particles would not pose much of a threat. I agree that they do not but the Idea is to reduce friction and reduce erosion of the component. Replacing the solution does this. Regarding the Front differential. Here is my reasoning on this. First most people only use 4WD when they need it. Which is also the worst time to have a component failure. The 3000-mile front differential break in period is a tremendous hassle especially to those with auto hubs. Every time you back up you will need to reengage them. It also has one other problem. While this process will break in all of the bearings nicely, it will typically only break in the back edge of the ring and pinion teeth. Unless you do a lot of backing (miles) you will not really let the teeth engage the forward edge unless you engage the 4X4 lever. If it is possible Truck should be put in 4WD whenever conditions will allow for it during this 3000-mile period. Dirt roads, Rain or snowy conditions will provide a decent amount of slush factor to keep the stress from screwing up the transfer case or tires. I wouldn't run my 4 WD on dry pavement for any longer than it would take to engage the auto hubs, nor would I run my 4WD on wet concrete. I would also try to keep my turns as small as possible when on wet asphalt. Even though the tires will slip on wet pavement, they are still putting a large strain on the transfer case when they grip. Wet Concrete has almost as much traction as it does dry, so keep that in mind. I purchased mine used at 58000 miles. I have had it in 4WD only on the test drive when I purchased it and once afterwards. My hubs only will fully engage when they want to on their own. So I haven't been able to run around with the front engaged. I have a set of Warn Premium manuals, sitting on the shelf of my garage, that I am going to put in before winter. I will also swap out the gear oil for Synthetic. I will probably go with AMSOIL 2000 75W90 in the Dana 50. Then I will commence my own 3000-mile break in. I am also going to install a drain plug on the bottom of the Dana. To those who have 4X4 trucks it is a good idea to engage that differential once a month and allow it to get up to operating temps. About 20 minutes time. This is a good Idea too before using 4X4. Very bad to use the front differential when it is cold with the rest of the truck warmed up and raring to go. Going to drill and tap the bottom of the housing. The plug will be a female type square drive 1/4" NPT Standard Dorman hardware. If I can get one with a magnet then all the better. if not, oh well. Not my original Idea. I have to give credit to one of the other site members for this idea though. Regarding the Sterling 10.25 If you are filling while on the truck I believe it is just over 3 quarts. So you will need four. Mobil 1 is a 75W90 weight oil.

Belts

How to change serpentine belt???

I use a 15 mm socket with a breaker bar myself, I thread the grooved pulleys first and leave the smooth one at the top to go on last where I can hold the bar and slide the belt on at the same time. A FEW IMPORTANT THINGS YOU HAVE TO KNOW!!!!! there are two types of belts some have 7 (SEVEN grooves) and some have 8 (EIGHT grooves) it depends on year of truck. When you get new pulleys ( and you will) make sure you have all 7's or all 8's. Check with your FORD parts guy to be sure. Also not only do I carry the socket and breaker bar but when you put the new belt on take the old one and place it underneath or behind the back seat, when one breaks it always seems to be 2:00 am in the rain and cold in the middle of no-where. The old used belt will get you to civilization.

PS: Make sure you get the right belt with Air and Without Air are two different lengths and 7 rib and 8 rib be sure to get the right one. If you have a problem routing it. There's a sticker with a diagram showing the routing in the engine compartment.

Serpentine Belt Squeaks

I went to gates.com and they have an excellent discussion of how and why belts "chirp". In my case its probably due to a slight misalignment of one of the pulleys.

Brakes

Exhaust Brake - Make one by Doing It Yourself

Mod & Article by Jonathan Ryan

The Engine Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV) is a butterfly type valve located on the outlet of the turbocharger, between the turbine and the down pipe. It is controlled by the Power train Control Module (PCM), and activated by engine oil pressure. Its purpose is to decrease engine warm up time in cold weather by restricting exhaust flow out of the engine. It can be very easily and very inexpensively converted into an engine exhaust brake by adding some simple wiring and a switch.

The valve is very practical for assisting braking. When used correctly its braking effect can be compared to the restriction gained by downshifting one gear while descending a hill. The valve is most valuable to braking when engine speed is between 2500 and 3000 RPM. Unfortunately, it will lose the engine braking abilities when engine speed drops below 2000 RPM.

The following method outlines the manner in which the EBPV can be converted to a braking device. The following will cover any vehicle equipped with a manual transmission. Vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions will require an additional circuit to be added in order to maintain torque converter lockup while the exhaust brake is activated. That circuit will be addressed at the end of this article, however the majority of this article is applicable for both transmission types.

EBPV Schematic at http://community.webshots.com/photo/31332816/33154054yrQYVH

In order to control the function of the EBPV, I recommend using a 3-position switch. This type of switch will control the Valve in the following manner:

Switch in the OFF Position (center position): The EBPV will function normally, as it would for a stock vehicle. This means that the valve will only actuate in order to warm up the engine.

Switch in the "A" ON Position: the EBPV closes and remains closed until the switch is turned OFF.

Switch in the “B” ON Position: the EBPV will close whenever the brake pedal is pressed, and will open when the pedal is released. There will be a 2-3 second lag for the exhaust valve to close upon stepping on the brake. Thus, it is important to understand that when using it in the "B" ON position to push the pedal and hold it down with steady pressure. The reason for keeping pedal pressure is that the EBPV actuator is receiving power from the brake light circuit when the switch is in this position. Thus, pumping the brakes or releasing the pedal will cause the valve to deactivate or open. Furthermore, once the brake is applied again it will take another two seconds for the EBPV to activate again. Unfortunately, pumping the brake pedal will result in the exhaust valve remaining in a constant open position. This will provide ZERO engine braking force. To prevent this less than desirable phenomenon from happening, it is important the operator keep his foot on the brake lightly enough that the brake light switch is continually activated. I prefer touching and holding my pedal just hard enough for the brake lights to come on; then, when I hear the EBPV close (it makes a distinct hissing), I begin applying additional pressure to the brake pedal. Reducing brake pedal pressure can be done without losing exhaust-braking force, as long as there is enough pedal pressure maintained to keep the brake lights on.

Materials:

·

(1) ON-OFF-ON type Heavy Duty Double-Pole Double-Throw (DPDT) toggle switch. It will have connections for 6 wires on the back, and the switch will have 3 positions UP=ON, CENTER=OFF, DOWN=ON. RS (Radio Shack)# 275-1533A $2.49 or 275-710 $2.99 · 25'-30' of 18 gauge wire. 5'-7' each of 4 different colors is best. · (10-12) Ring or Spade terminals for wire connections. 18-22 gauge are red. RS# 64-3032A or 64-3033A $1.49 (4-6) Butt connectors for wires. 18-22 gauge are red. RS# 64-3037A $1.49 · (2) Rectifier Diodes. A diode is the equivalent on an electrical check valve, allowing current to flow in only one direction. RS# 276-1114 · (2) Optional Mini Indicator lamps. RS# 276-085A (red) 276-084A (green) $1.99 each. (By using the switch indicator lights, the operator immediately knows how the EBPV is activated or not.) · 10' Split loom for protecting wires. RS# 278-1264 $3.99 · (10) Wire ties. · (1) Inline fuse holder. RS# 270-1213 $1.99 · Electrical tape. I recommend Liquid Electrical Tape as being better for almost everything. · Tape and Marker (In order to label wires.)

Tools:

Wire cutters/strippers · Screw Drivers · Drill w/ bits up to 7/16" · Volt/Ohm Meter, or at least a test light. · Soldering Iron is recommended but not essential. · Torx bits &/or 1/4" drive metric sockets to remove dashboard trim to install switch.

Procedure:

Decide on a place in the dash to install the switch. I installed mine in the black panel just to the right of the "Wait to Start" light. There is room for 2-3 switches there.

Remove the necessary trim and molding around the steering column / instrument panel to access the reverse side of where you want the switch. Drill a 1/2" hole, and install the switch. Re-install the molding to make sure it fits into place when the switch is installed. Then, remove the switch and the molding again for ease of access while wiring.

Wire #1: Decide what you will use for a positive power source. Insure that this source is one that is "ON" only when the ignition is in the “ON” position. I recommend the 8 gauge, gray/yellow wire in the bundle under the steering column. You can also tap a fuse in the fuse panel. Run wire [#1] from the source to the switch, connecting it to terminal A2. I numbered the terminals as viewed from the back of the switch Install the inline fuse holder on this line. Make sure to leave 6"-12" or more of slack on all the wires. You can always bundle them up later.

Wire #2: Decide placement of a negative power point or ground, and run a wire from this to the switch, connecting it to terminal C1.

Connect one light to terminals A1 and C2; this is light A. Connect the other light to terminals B1 and C2; this is light B. Drill holes for the lights just above and below the switch. Install the lights with B in the top hole, and A in the bottom. I recommend this because when the switch is down, contact is made between A+C; when the switch is up, contact is between B+C. For simplicity, the diagram does not show the lights "crossed" like this.

Remove the black-hinged cover from over the fuel filter area in the engine compartment.

Wires#3 & #4: Run two wires from the switch through the firewall into the engine compartment. Connect one [#3] to terminal C2 and run it to the front of the engine. Connect the other [#4] to terminal B2 and run it to the brake master cylinder. If you have a horizontal diamond shaped plate about 2.5" wide just to the passenger's side of the clutch cylinder, remove the screws and run the wires through it. Otherwise, you may need to drill a hole. I always find that running the wires is the hardest part of any wiring project.

There should be a green wire by the driver's side of the master cylinder in the group of 4 marked "Center High Mount Stop Lamp Feed." This wire most likely will not be connected to anything. This wire is only energized when the brake lights come on. Connect wire [#4] to this one. If this wire is not present, use a voltmeter or test light to find a wire that is hot only when the brake lights are on and connect to that wire instead.

Locate the wires that travel from the PCM to the EBPV. There should be a 2-wire plug just under the turbo compressor. It is located towards the front of the engine between the turbocharger and the fuel pump on the intake side of the turbocharger. The plug is attached to the turbo pedestal. Disconnect this plug, and remove the loom (protective plastic shielding) on the plug side moving away from the turbo, to expose the wires inside. Slide off the loom until it reaches the intersection of the larger wire bundle. This will expose both wires; one wire is black w/gray, the other gray w/red.

The Two Rectifier Diodes that are required will each have a silver band around one end. Twist the wires from the "silver" ends together making a "Y.” The "black" ends will be at the top and the silver ends at the bottom of the "Y.” Cut the gray w/red wire 2"-3" before the plug, strip the insulation back 1/2" or so, and solder the black end on one diode to the end of the cut wire that does NOT go into the plug. Solder the black end on the other diode to wire [#3]; solder the two silver ends to the gray w/red wire that goes into the plug. The diodes are necessary to prevent the brake lights from coming on when the PCM operates the EBPV, and to prevent the PCM from receiving a 12v signal from wire [#1]. If you don't have a soldering iron, you can use crimp connectors.

Coat all the wire connections with several coats of Liquid Electrical Tape, then wrap them with regular electrical tape, and replace the loom. Also, cover wires [#3 & #4] with loom, all the way to the switch. Bundle up any excess wire with wire ties, and secure them all to prevent chafing. Install the switch in its hole, and replace the dash trim.

Automatic Transmission Circuit:

If the intention is to use the EBPV as a brake with an Automatic Transmission equipped vehicle, then an additional circuit is required in order to reap the most engine braking benefit from this application. This circuit will keep the torque converter locked up while the valve is in an activated state. In effect, it maintains engine RPM in relation to ground speed and prevents transmission disconnection, which would result in loss of engine speed, ultimately reducing the effectiveness of the exhaust valve as an engine brake.

Auto Trans Circuit Procedure: Run a wire from [#3] to connect to the TC lockup circuit. Install a diode on that wire with the silver end towards the transmission.

Testing:

To test, start the engine. With the switch in the up position, the upper light should come on when you press the brake pedal, and you should hear a distinct hissing or swooshing sound when the EBPV closes, after 2-3 seconds. With the switch down, the bottom light should come on and stay on, and the EBPV will close immediately.

Conclusions:

I find no advantage to using the EBPV brake with an unloaded truck during normal driving. However, when I am hauling a heavy load, it is worth its weight in gold. During normal hauling, I leave it in the up position, so I will have extra braking power when I need it. For exit ramps and long or steep downgrades, I put it in the down position and leave it on as long as practical. When the truck is parked, you can leave the switch in the down position, as it is useful as an anti-theft device. The activated valve will not allow the truck to go much over 33 mph. This is also very useful for very fast warm-ups in winter.

Breaking In A New Diesel Motor

Breaking in a Diesel Engine

Source: Ford-Diesel.com by Jay Chlebowski This article outlines the processes and prescribes a superior method for breaking in the Current Production Diesel Engine.

"Breaking-in" a new diesel engine... You may immediately come up with some questions such as… Why did Ford-Diesel.com release an article about something that is a non-issue? I thought newer engines were manufactured with precision crafted parts? According to the manufacturer, there is supposed to be “no break-in necessary”? Many of the engine manufacturers claim that their engines do not require break-in. That is just pure baloney! Enough pestering and a few references to some of the Cummins shop manuals have painted a clearer picture. All engines require some kind of break-in period. This is even true with current technology. Although current technology provides the means of manufacturing engine parts with unimaginable precision, the manufacturer still falls far short of achieving the near perfect fit that a proper break-in will provide. “Break-in,” for the most part, is the allowance of the machined cylinder and ring surfaces to conform to each other’s shape during engine operation. This conforming or “mating” of ring and cylinder surfaces is the ultimate goal of a proper break-in. “Mating” these two specific parts will produce a very tight seal in each cylinder. A tight seal is very important because it prevents the escape of unburned fuel and pressurized gasses into the crankcase, while further preventing crankcase oil from entering the cylinder above the top compression ring. It is the intention of this article to help people understand more about the break-in process, and what happens or can happen during the first few thousand miles of engine operation.

During break-in, a small amount of compression blow-by, oil-fuel dilution, and oil consumption will be experienced. This is perfectly normal and quite common in new engines. Although acceptable at first it is imperative that these undesirable attributes be as close to zero as possible after break-in has been completed. Although the others are important, blow-by is the primary reason the ring and cylinder wall interface has to fit together so tightly. Diesel fuel needs to be introduced into an air environment that is under intense pressure in order for it to burn without an ignition source. When the fuel burns, the gasses produced multiply the compression pressure in the cylinder. Pressurized gasses that escape by means of the compression ring / cylinder wall interface are called blow-by gases. Pressure that escapes the cylinder in this manner results in a loss of energy. Whether it is pressure lost on compression or combustion, it is unable to be utilized to drive the piston through the power stroke. This loss ultimately results in a reduction of fuel mileage and power.

Today’s Diesels can take a "few" miles to fully break in. 10,000 miles is not an uncommon break-in period, especially for an engine like the Power Stroke Diesel. The reasons that break-in is such a lengthy process are generally attributed to engineering targets as well as the function of diesel combustion.

In terms of engineering targets, engine manufacturers produce diesel engines to sustain high torque loads over constant and extended load intervals. In other words, very durable parts are required to hold up to the rigors of diesel operating conditions. For example, The International Truck and Engine Company employs some very special parts in their 175 - 275 hp engines. The pistons used in these engines are manufactured from lightweight aluminum alloy, and are constructed with Ni-Resist ring inserts. The aforementioned piston combination is further complemented with keystone plasma faced rings. These rings help reduce oil consumption and can extend the life of the power cylinder further than ordinary chromium-plated rings. While chromium-plated rings continue to be produced for both diesel and gasoline applications, they are slowly becoming old technology. They still perform well but plasma faced rings have consistently shown superior performance.

When we consider the function of diesel combustion, we must first understand the engine dynamics that are associated with that process. In order for break-in to occur, a fair amount of heat, friction and resulting wear will have to take place before the compression rings will have “mated” with the cylinder walls. When the rings and cylinder wall are new, a modest amount of heat is created merely from the friction of the new rings passing over the freshly honed cylinder wall. While the heat from friction is significant, the real heat is created from combustion of fuel in the cylinder. When the fuel is burned, gasses are produced that expand and heat all of the cylinder parts. If enough fuel is introduced, the resulting combustion can create gasses that expand so much they will actually expand the cylinder wall and the compression rings. It is important to understand this because expanding these parts places additional pressure on them, which creates more friction and correspondingly more heat. This does not take into account the additional heat from combustion that will be added to the heat from friction. Heat is important to assist wear for break-in but too much can cause major problems. This is the reason we should not subject the engine to significant loading for the first 1000 miles of its operation. Loading heavily will introduce more fuel to the cylinder, and will add significant amounts of heat and pressure to the cylinder components. Couple that scenario with new rings on a freshly honed cylinder wall and we can only imagine the amount of friction and heat being produced and absorbed by the rings. Furthermore, the engine oil, lubricating the cylinder walls, will flash burn when it contacts the very hot rings. The burned oil will leave a hard, enamel like residue on the cylinder wall, commonly known as oil glazing. When the rings are permitted to operate under such high temperatures, oil glazing of the cylinder can happen very quickly. Once this glaze builds up, the only repair is a labor-intensive process that requires disassembling the engine and re-honing the effected cylinders. Oil glazing is a problem because it is typically not distributed evenly in the cylinder, and the spaces that exist between the ring and cylinder wall are either still there or new larger ones are created. Oil glazing is typically thicker towards the top of the cylinder and it builds up in the areas where heating is the greatest. The glaze has very smooth and friction free properties that do not allow it to be scraped away by the rings. This inhibits further metal-to-metal wear between the cylinder wall and rings, preventing further mating of ring and cylinder. Thus, those small gaps between ring and cylinder surface will never seal. These spaces will then allow pressurized gasses and unburned fuel to escape into the crankcase, while allowing oil from the crankcase to enter the cylinder above the top compression ring.

Well why not run the engine at idle or under no load? This is bad too. It can create a similar condition to glazing. The rings need to expand a little during this initial break-in period, just not so much that they overheat and flash the engine oil. The engine needs to be moderately loaded in order to break in correctly. Running the engine under very light or no load prevents the oil film placed on the cylinder wall from being scraped away by the expanding compression rings. The rings will instead “hydroplane” or ride over the deposited oil film, allowing it to be exposed to the cylinder combustion. The oil film will then partially burn on the cylinder leaving a residue that will build up and oxidize over time. Eventually this leaves a hard deposit on the cylinder wall that is very similar to the glaze left from flash burning. My caution to those just running the engine as a normal daily driver (without some loading) and especially those who love to idle their vehicles, expect some VERY extended break-in periods (up to 30,000 miles on one I know of). Expect oil consumption forever due to oil glazing. The rings never really seat well if they cannot expand from the dynamics and heat that a load produces. Expect poor mileage due to the passing of compression and combustion gasses around the compression rings. Additionally, expect to see increased bearing wear and engine wear due to the fuel passing the rings diluting the engine oil.

Thus, we can see that heavy loading and light loading can cause some major problems. Moderate loading is the key to a proper break in for the first 1000 miles. It permits the loose fitting piston rings to expand into the cylinder walls allowing them to perform double duty: First, scraping oil off the cylinder wall, and second, to create friction that will promote wearing the two surfaces to each other’s proportions. Furthermore, moderate loading will allow the rings to get hot but not to the point where it will flash the lubricating oil supplied to the cylinder walls.

Once the rings and cylinder have "mated," they will have worn away a considerable amount of their roughness. They will wear slower than they did when they were new. This reduced wear rate indicates the end of break-in, and a decrease in oil consumption should be obvious to the owner / operator. Furthermore, blow-by and fuel dilution should also be reduced but may not be so obviously evident. Be aware that engines employing Plasma faced ring technology will take a longer time to break-in. These rings tend to wear far slower than chromium-plated rings. The plasma ring’s hardness allows it to wear the cylinder wall in a more aggressive manner while only polishing the ring surface. Eventually the cylinder wall wears to the shape of the ring and subsequent cylinder wear evolves to a polishing process. This extended process drastically improves the sealing potential of the cylinder, which will correspondingly reduce blow-by and the amount of physical wear on these components. Therefore, we can safely say that the plasma faced ring / Ni Resist insert combination greatly extends engine life. Unfortunately, the price of this better seal is a longer break-in period.

So the big question is: How long does it take for an engine to break-in? Outside of the rings being hard as rocks and just taking their own sweet time to mate to the cylinder bores, the greatest factor is how the engine is broken-in. Most engines will be broken-in after running for some time, but some ways of breaking-in an engine are far superior to others as they are more likely to produce low blow-by and near zero oil consumption.

Therefore, I will lay out some recommended DOs well as definite DON’Ts:

1. DON'T run the engine hard for the first 50 to 100 miles. It is recommended that the engine be operated around the torque peak (1500 to 1800 RPM) in high gear. This loads the engine very gently, and allows the internal parts to "get acquainted" without any extreme forces.

2. DON'T let the engine idle for more than five (5) minutes at any one time during the first 100 miles. (Even in traffic.) Remember those loose fitting rings, and possible fuel-oil dilution that were noted above? (Fuel Dilution is very common when diesels idle, even with well broken-in engines.) Well, if that fuel is allowed to contact the main and rod bearings during break in (not really good at any time), you might be looking at an engine that will always consume some oil and one that may not produce power or mileage as expected. In the first few miles of break-in, the bearings are mating to the crank, rods, etc. It is imperative during this time that the lubrication qualities of the oil remain robust. Fuel in the oil will reduce its ability to absorb shock and float the rotating parts in their bearings. Contact between bearings and journals will occur more frequently which will result in additional friction wear. This will ultimately reduce the tight tolerances between the bearings and journals. What was originally a tight fit will be sloppy and will never be able to mate properly.

3. DO drive the engine at varying RPMs and speeds until about 1000 miles. The idea is to alternately heat and cool the rings under varying RPMs. Manual transmission-equipped trucks are the best for this as they typically employ engine compression to slow the vehicle during normal operation, this constantly allows for varied RPMs. This can also be done with automatic transmissions, but it requires that you manually downshift the transmission into the lower gears while driving. Typically, most people with automatic transmissions operate their vehicles in Drive or Overdrive gear positions without making these manual shifts. When their vehicle is decelerating and the speed falls below 38 mph the transmission has little influence on engine RPM. This is because the torque converter unlocks and the auto transmission does not downshift to lower gears in the same fashion that manually shifting does. My suggestion to those with auto transmissions is to find an empty parking lot in the evening, and drive back and forth across it in the lower gears. (This can be done with standard transmission trucks as well.) Each time revving her up close to redline and letting engine compression slow it back down. This gets the rings a bit hot, but the compression braking allows the pistons to cool with high oil spray flow and no fuel load. Keep doing this for a number of runs, or until boredom sets in.

4. DO put a load on the engine at around 1000 miles, and get the thing hot! Diesels are designed to work, and in many cases, they operate best under a load. Baptize your engine with a nice "initiation load," to introduce it to hard work. Keep the revs up (but watch the EGTs), and make sure the coolant temps rise. Hooking up your trailer and finding some hills to pull works great for this. After the 1000 mile pull, just drive it normally, always making sure to let the engine get up to normal operating temps (no 1-mile trips to 7-Eleven). Towing is ok but remember to not overload and to monitor your gauges carefully erring on the side of caution. Under these conditions, I have seen most diesels completely break-in between 10-15,000 miles, and have always been able to tell that point from mileage gains. One may also notice that the "symphony" of the engine also changes slightly at this point.

We know that Engine Manufacturers have built today’s diesel engines using state of the art technology. They have fashioned parts to match in near perfect fashion. We can understand, through this article, that breaking-in this modern marvel of technology is more important then the manufacturers have lead us to believe. Furthermore, we can appreciate that following their claims can result in an engine that is wrought with inefficiency, sloppy fitting parts, and oil consumption problems. Following the guidelines and warnings set forth in this article will provide anyone who desires maximum efficiency and power out of his engine many miles of trouble free operation.

Buying Used Power Stroke Diesels

Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel

You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

Catalitic Converter

Gutting The Cat

Cat Delete Pipe -- Ford part number F4TZ-5A212-V

Best way to remove the cat is to loosen the clams front and rear. With a marker mark the front and align the mark at the very bottom to help you get it back on in the right direction and bottom facing straight down. NOTICE THE LITTLE TIT AND NOTCH AT THE BACK OF THE CONVERTER, THAT MUST BE LINED UP TO RE-INSTALL. Unhinge both muffler hangers behind (2) of them go to the drivers side of the truck and pull the cat in that direction and with a dead blow hammer or a heavy hammer OR with a piece of 2 x 4 hit the cat forward until it releases. Then wiggle the front section loose.

Now is the fun part. With a steel breaker bar or a pipe or anything that is longer than the length of the cat start beating the honey comb up and keep dumping it out of the side your hitting. do this until it is all out. Hint beat the crap out of it is not as simple as it seems. Make sure it is all clear before removing because you do not want any rattles.

Installing the cat back by banging the cat fully into the front using the mark to align the cat right and the arrow forward. Hint: Make sure the cat it seated all the way forward before re-claming. Then make sure you align the back to the tit and notch before you start banging the back in place. Make sure the tit is all the way seated before clamping and set the hangers back before tightening the clamp. Finish tightening and then go back and tighten again because it must be very tight. Check the exhaust hangers and make sure they are on properly. Your done...... Great job you just gutted the cat.

Clutches

Difficulty Shifting, and / or Low Clutch Engagement

Many of the 1994-1997 F-Series 5 Speed owners have complained about Clutch Problems. The symptoms of many of these complaints are:

· Pedal needs to be pushed into the floor to allow starter to engage, · Difficulty getting the transmission into gear from start, · low clutch pedal engagement and also · noticeably harder shifting between gears, with possible grinding on downshifts.

People with these symptoms often ask if there is an adjustment on the clutch, or in the clutch linkage to rectify this situation. There is no such adjustment. While these symptoms can indicate a number of possible problems the most common problem causing all these symptoms is probably going to cost you no more than $10 dollars. Here is a simple fix that most people can do themselves.

On the 1994-1997 F-Series Manual Transmission Trucks, these symptoms are most likely due to a worn clutch master cylinder bushing. This bushing lies in the eye of the clutch master rod. This rod is located just above the accelerator pedal. The bushing in question is made of plastic nylon, and when it wears out, the eye of the clutch master rod will typically slip on the clutch linkage pin about 1/8th of an inch. That 1/8th inch at the linkage translates to about 1 inch to 1 ½ inch loss of travel at the pedal. Thus your clutch will either be partially engaged or it will engage with the pedal only traveling a ¼ inch from the floor. If the truck is a 1994 to 1995 the clutch master rod was manufactured as a plastic rod. Continued use of the clutch while the linkage is misaligned can result in the plastic clutch master rod breaking in two. While I have never heard of the metal rod in the 96-97 trucks ever breaking I would not recommend continuing use as the bushing wears out very quickly when misaligned and there is bound to be metal wear at some point in the near future. This is covered in more detail later in this article.

To fix this problem: Members of this site have come up with a couple of modifications to the original equipment to rectify this problem. First you need to do is go to the local Ford house and purchase Ford Part # E69Z7526A, crowned bushing. Usually they are made of white plastic but some are said to have come in black. They run the better part of $3 each. The consensus from the membership at Ford-Diesel.com is that just replacing the worn bushing will solve your problem initially but the same problem is likely to recur within a month. Many of us have solved the recurrence problem by insuring the proper alignment of the clutch linkage pin and the clutch master cylinder rod.

The way to insure the proper alignment of these components involves a little modification. You first start with clipping off the crown portion of the bushing with a sharp razor blade or razor knife. The bushing is then installed in its normal manner. First the bushing is placed in the clutch master rod eye and then it is slid onto the clutch linkage pin. The trick is to find a way to keep the rod and bushing from sliding off the Clutch linkage pin. There are two basic ways to accomplish this.

1. The easiest and least expensive way: Purchase a 5/16" E-Clip that will fit in the groove at the end of the clutch linkage that holds the clutch master rod in place. Also purchase two 5/16 “ washers, 1 Teflon/plastic and 1 metal to be placed between the E-Clip and the clutch master rod. A 7/16” drill stop or collar bushing will also work in place of an e-clip you will Not be able to fit any washers on the pin though. This is what I used.

2. Another way is slightly more labor intensive but just as inexpensive. This one was submitted to me by Ray Varnadore. He took the picture you see on the left. Install the Rod and bushing as stated onto the clutch linkage pin. Then place one metal washer against the clutch master rod while on the pin and mark a location to drill a very small hole. Find a small cotter pin and drill the appropriate hole through the Clutch linkage pin so that it will be flush with the washer. An old Chevrolet shift linkage clip may be easier to remove and reinstall if ever the bushing were to need replacement again. It will also keep tension on the washer keeping it firmly in place. Ray said he drilled the hole with a variable speed hand held drill.

In the event that the Plastic clutch master cylinder rod has broken, you will be compelled to do one of two things to make the repair. You will either purchase a new clutch master cylinder, or you could find a metal clutch master rod and modify it (grinding) to fit the existing old style clutch master. Well if you figure you will just suck it up and buy the Master, well there is a problem: If you choose to purchase a new clutch master cylinder you will be forced to purchase three additional hydraulic clutch components, to the tune of $350. The reason for this is that Ford no longer sells a direct replacement for the original clutch master cylinder. They sell an “improved” replacement clutch master that uses a steel rod. (This clutch master is the one currently used on 1996- 1997 Manual Transmission F-Series’.) It is entirely incompatible with the hydraulic clutch components that are in your truck. Unfortunately, if you choose this route, this fix is going to involve bringing a shopping bag to the dealer because this is what you will need to get you shifting again:

One good thing about the 1996 – 1997 F-Series is that the metal rod is unlikely to break but if it does the only replacement part needed would be the Clutch master cylinder. Or find a rod in a junkyard.

So it may behoove you to keep an eye out for rod misalignment or just spend a couple of bucks and beat it to the punch.

I want to give thanks to Ray Varnadore, Steve Klein and any other Ford-Diesel.com member who contributed to help make this article possible.

Coolants

Extended Life Coolants

The cooling system on any diesel has special concerns. It's possible for the coolant to cavitate --produce tiny bubbles--that can with time cause pinholes through the cylinder walls from the water jackets. For this there is an additive; Ford P/N FW-15 or FW-16, Fleetguard P/N DCA4; that needs to be maintained in the coolant. Generally this means installing 8 to 10 oz of the additive to the cooling system every 15000 miles. Another method is to monitor the cooling system with Fleetguard's DCA4 test kit P/N CC2602 or CC2602A. This measures the level of DCA4 in the system, and then you add the amount as required. The cooling system should be drained (and flushed if you live in an area with especially alkaline water) and refilled with a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant/water and one pint of the additive for every two gallons of coolant/water at 30,000 miles. Use only a low-silicate ethylene glycol-based coolant. Ford does not recommend using propylene glycol coolants in any of their vehicles. · Ford or Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze · Motorcraft Premium Gold Antifreeze (does not require SCA/DCA)
· Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant
· Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant Pre-diluted 50/50
· Zerex 5/100 (white bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant
· Zerex Ready To Use Antifreeze/Coolant (premixed 50/50 with de-mineralized water)
· Zerex Heavy Duty Pre-charged Formula
· Shellzone Premium Quality Antifreeze
· Fleetguard Complete EG--pre-charged at 1.5 units/gallon DCA4
Also available premixed 50/50 with water with the same DCA4 level · Pyroil Heavy-Duty Antifreeze/Coolant--Low Silicate
· Fleet Charge Antifreeze/Coolant--pre-charged with Pencool

Tips for using Fleetguards Test strips

One of the most common asked questions requarding test strips and how much coolant additive is required to raise the additive to a safe level. This depends on the capacity of the coolant system. Another piece of useful information is that each 1 pint bottle of additive is equal to 5 units.

Fleetguard considers the safe level to be between 1.5 & 2.5 The reason we recommend adding UP TO 2.5 is to help ensure that by the next time you check your coolant it will still be between these levels. Since not everybody maintains their vehicle in the same manner we recommend the HIGH end of the SAFEST LEVEL of 2.5. This has apparently confused some which is why we have added this statement.

For an example on getting your level to the HIGH end of the SAFE LEVEL 2.5

My Friends 99 Ford Powerstroke has a capacity of 32.75 quarts or 8.2 gallons. To figure out how many units 1 pint of additive will raise the coolant level, divide the 5 units by the capacity in gallons (8.2) 5 divided by 8.2 = .61, this tells you that each pint of additive will raise the coolant level .6. If your current level is 1.8 and you wish to reach a level of 2.5 you would need to add 2 pints (2 x .6 = 1.2, 1.2 + 1.8 = 2.5)

To assist you in getting the Ph level close to the nuetral level of 7.0 Ph try adding 16oz of Plain White Vinagur and run for a day or two and then chech your Ph again.

Coolant Filter Installation

Use 5/8" tees. Around $2 each at Napa. they are black plastic. They had plastic Y's but wanted $7 each and only had 1 in stock. There is another post that you can search for that claims that brass tees are available at Lowes (search for Lowes or Quest). I did not feel like driving that far. Also, one guy did a 5/8 by 3/8 x 5/8 tee and made smaller lines to the filter. My Napa bracket came with 5/8 ells so I kept the 5/8 size overall. The Napa bracket is heavy and will need support.

All you PSD owners out there

The answer to your coolant additives is CAT EXTENDED LIFE COOLANT. This is a premixed coolant for all engines with cavitations problems. Just flush out other coolant. Takes approx 5 1/2 gals @ approx $6.00 per gal. All the info is under CATERPILLAR'S WEB SITE www.cat.com Check with any Heavy Equipment or Road Truck dealer, most carry. This coolant is good for 300,000 miles do not add water or additives.

Bypass Coolant Filter W/Eye

Napa parts. Bracket is the 4019, filter is 4071. Used 5/8 black plastic Tee's. The bracket allows for vertical mounting, so I ran a 1"x6"x 1/8 " aluminum angle back from the alternator bolts and mounted the coolant bracket there. It sets just above the front of the valve cover.

Coolant Filter I used a NAPA #4019 filter base kit and NAPA #4071 pre-charged filter for my application. I know there are other bases out there and Baldwin is another good one, but I like Napa’s kit and the position of the inlet and outlet. This made it easier to mount. I also used BRASS T's for my application and a JOHN DEERE "coolant eye" for regular inspection as you can see in the photographs. The coolant eye really makes it nice because you can attach a garden hose with a female end to the eye for regular flushing intervals. It creates a swirl effect that forces debris down to the trap and has a drain cock on it for draining trapped debris that flows through the eye. This is also a feature of the coolant eye. The application was really easy to do and took just a short time to accomplish, but the long term effects of this type of system are a tremendous benefit to a diesel motor.

Here is a list of the parts you see so you can obtain the setup from a store nearest you. 1 - Piece of 2 inch Angle Iron - 1/8 in. thickness, cut to 4 in. long and notched on the alternator side, drilled to bolt specs.. 1 - NAPA #4019 base kit - includes base, 2 - 90's, and 3 - bolts. 1 - NAPA #4071 pre-charged filter OR equivalent. 2-3 ft. of 5/8 heater hose for attachment and in case of a problem. 10 - hose clamps (as shown because of the coolant eye) 2 - Brass T's: 3/8 thread. 6 - Brass Nipples: 3/8 thread to 5/8 hose. 1 - Can of Glossy Black Krylon Spray Paint 1 - John Deere #TY16423 (Coolant Eye)-----OPTIONAL Teflon Tape for threaded fittings. **Everything but the BRASS fittings should be available at your NAPA store. **The BRASS fittings were purchased from a local hardware store. I'm sure you can find them maybe at a LOWE'S or HOME DEPOT. They should be back in the BRASS FITTINGS area of the respected stores. I'm sure someone will have them somewhere if you look hard enough. If you can't find the BRASS fittings, plastic is an option, but I personally wouldn't use it.

Cup Holder for the front like the back bench seat

Go to the junk yard and get a cup holder and the two mounting bolts from a wrecked truck or go to Ford Parts and order them. Measure the distance between the two bolts from the middle of the bolts on your truck and center them on a ¼” strip of steel. Then mount the strip in the center of the 20 seat of the 40/20/40 and pop rivet the strip to the metal bench bracket making sure the mounting bolts are set high enough so that the new cup holder mounts down onto and fully on the two bolts and now you have cup holder front and rear.

40 20 40 Center Console Disassembly

The whole console is made up of 5 parts, the cup holder, accordion door, the storage area, the storage area door, and the "trim piece"

The first and hardest part to get off is the trim piece. There are 2 "keepers" on the front and 3 down each side, 2 in the back, but you need to only get the front and the sides off so you can get it up just enough to get the accordion door out to get the lost change out or what ever is stuck in there.

To get the "keepers" loose, use a screwdriver to pry the foam down so you can see under the trim piece. You can’t see real good but you can at least find the keepers. The way the keeper’s work is they are a half arrow, and they fit into a groove. The trick is to apply some back and upward force and release the half arrowhead. I found that using a 90 deg pick tool worked the best. A small 90-degree screwdriver may work.

You’re going to end up breaking a couple of the keepers when doing this. Just take some clear silicone and glue it back down and wrapped some tape around the whole thing until it dries.

Electrical

Auxiliary Idle Controller

AIC MOD

Ok to start off with you will have to go to Radio Shack or similar store and get some parts.

STEP 1 Switches

STEP 2 Idle Validation Switch (IVS)

As you look at the throttle pedal you will see a switch on the left side with 2 wires going to it. The wires are taped together carefully un-tape them so you can work with the wires. I used a razor knife to cut the tape, but be careful not to cut the wires. (There should be a red/orange with and a brown wire, unless they changed the color code of these wires.)

Cut the red/orange wire leaving plenty on the switch side so that you can splice onto it. The red/orange wire that is going into the wire bundle needs to get hooked to the common side of one of the relays.

The other red/orange (the one attached to the IVS) goes to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay. Now take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) and run it over to the brown wire by the IVS, you will just tap onto this wire so you don’t need to cut it. Just take some of the insulation off and solder it on, then tape her back up.

STEP 3 The other Relay and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located on top of the pedal and has 3 wires going to it. Remove the tape to expose the wires. (There should be a brown/white wire and a gray/white wire.)

Cut the brown/white wire, leaving enough to work with by the switch. Hook the end up that goes back into the wire bundle to the common side of the other relay.

Take the side that goes to the switch and hook it to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay.

Take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) of the relay and go to the left terminal on the POT.

Now take a wire from the center terminal of the POT and tap it into the gray/white wire.

Tape up all the bare wires and enjoy

10k Resistor Mod

A 10k ohm resistor will raise the injection oil pressure approximately 200 psi. Increased injection pressure will deliver more fuel and will deliver more fuel sooner. This increase in fuel deliver and advance will yield higher combustion temperature but your exhaust gas temperature will remain almost steady. Such an efficient burn has it's down side. It will cause an idle rougher than stock. It may also cause the production of nitrous oxides. Thermal efficiency is a function of the high(absolute)temperature divided by low(absolute)temperature. In other words, the higher the peak combustion temperature in comparison to the exhaust temperature the more efficient is your engine.

IPS has 3 connections:
+4.97V
+0.003V
+Output
Turn key off!
Connect resistor between output and 0.003V (do not cut any factory wires)
Slide fine wires into plug and reassemble
Cover bare wires with tape

I used a 1 watt .05 rated 10K resister. Soldered a 3" piece of wire on each side of the resister slide heat shrink over the entire part of the resister and about 1" of wire. Leave about 1" of the wire soldered on inside the heat shrink and seal each end to be sure with electrical tape. Then I stripped the wire back 1" I pulled out of the wire 5 strands and cut the rest away. Looking at the connector it looks like 2 eyes and a mouth put 1 wire in the right eye and the other in the mouth Blue/stripe and grey/stripe wire. I put the plug back into the ICP about 20 time until the check engine light did not come back on. If the check engine light comes back on you still have a open circuit. Just push it into there harder or pull it a part and put in again until no Check Engine Light comes on. It will if your work if you keep putting it in the plug and it seats.

Computer Codes

Fault Codes